kilokub

Diary

Page 22  4-16-12 to 12-12-7-12
BACK    NEXT

JJ and I did some window mechanism work today. We basically got the previously broken left side unit working and mounted after what we thought was a repair.

No.

I added a mounting tab to hopefully hold the cable tube in place.

4/19/12

No.

So, after mounting it, then reversing the mounting arrangement, we finally had to pull it out. I will send it tomorrow to John in Chicago at Electric Life.

We did nothing to break it. That plastic just appears brittle. It did not take two attempts at epoxy repair, and the bracket arrangement held the tube as designed, but the tube broke just up from the bracket. Hence, I feel we got a batch of brittle plastic.

Dirk from Economy Glass was supposed to come over, and still has not made it.

I’ve put this thing in a half dozen times so far. The mounting seems good to me. Dirk should have some words of wisdom on his eventual appearance here.

JJ  and I will go to work on the right side unit tomorrow.

4/21/12

JJ got a thought about covering the tubing with more tubing. He found some clear vinyl that worked, and found another layer of larger blue tube, which worked as a second layer, The short of it is we put it all together and the unit works. EL was not going to warranty the package, and it was $125, with discount, to get another package. The left door is in and working. The right door took about an hour start to finish, with ALL bracketing. Kelly was blown away at how quickly JJ and I did the right door.

Kelly wanted to clean up the air lines for the lift system, so we did that. All I need do now is connect my red (hot) air line to the master regulator under the dash and it is mounted and ready.

Dirk is coming in the morning to check function and suggest installing tracks and felt.

4/23/12

Dirk was pleased with my install, and is ordering some track and felt for me to install this week.

Randy came by and was also impressed with the progress.

I put out some calls to Old Air for AC (no response as yet after several calls), and Rewarder Headers (won’t do them free, but interested in the project and will stop by).

I have not checked in with Rob Moore as yet, but will tomorrow regarding the CV half shafts.

Randy gifted me with his presence today (I mean that sincerely), and he noted that there did not appear much metal to receive door rubber.

He is correct.

I think I will need to lower the inner jambs to achieve the standard 1.2” or so at other areas. I will check with Steele Rubber tomorrow about that, and order the windshield, rear window, and door rubbers.

4/30/12

Jim McComb from Rewarder Headers came by and came to an agreement on the exhaust system. He has quoted $2500, will do it all in mandrel-bent steel with ceramic coating. I mentioned that I thought we COULD take the exhaust forward and have an outlet near the cab, although that would not be my preference. Jim likes that. I hope to talk him back into a rear outlet when we do it.

I suggested I could move the forward running board mount if it would make it easier for him.

Yes.

SO I pulled the left side off, cut it apart as needed, and have tacked the forward mount in its new position. JJ and I will lift it on tomorrow and see how it fits, and where the studs will need to be welded to make it happen. I also removed some gobbledegook around the corbel extension (I had to take that off for now), and rewelded the front corner of the rear half near the cab in a more aligned position.

I asked his opinion about notching the crossmembers, and he felt they would be fine.

So we will accomplish both the running board remakes and do the crossmembers before he does his exhaust next week.

I also found a sheet of the MR-10 Lexan I had bought for my Funnycar windows, and we are going to mockup the windows with that material. We could actually use the Lexan for everything but the windshield.

5/3/12

I pulled the left running board off, repositioned the forward mounting, and reinstalled the corbel extension from the bed onto the running board. I decided this might b e a good time to do some bondo work, so I did the corbel. VERY painstaking work, but it looks damn good.

I also bought a replacement (and then of course found the missing) air file and 6” DA sander.

OF COURSE.

I put Kelly to work and along with me we have basically polished up the metal on the front end, and also using a grinder-mounted wire wheel for the tough spots.

I’ve cleaned up the door jamb on the driver’s side, and may do some bondo work on the top where we eliminated the drip rails.

I’ll have Kelly do the inside of the hood tomorrow.

I intend to take the KK down to the Edelbrock Show on Sunday. There is a celebrity charity event Saturday evening there, and I may tow it down in hopes of showing Gene Winfield and Chip Foose the project in person.

Jim at Rewarder called today to reschedule the exhaust for Tuesday.

I also spoke with Wade King at Drivelines, Inc. and he feels changing the driveshaft angle is OK. He may come to the show to see it. Regardless, I will wait on the crossmember mods (if any) until he sees it, and AFTER the exhaust is done.

5/5/12

Kelly ended up not doing the underside of the hood, I did.

I did some bondo work on the right side lower corbel column, and it looks very decent.

I assembled the tow bar, etc. and got the KK hooked up to the dually, ready to go, tires, aired up, ready to tow.

So I am ready to pull out tomorrow morning around 6:30 AM if I can get up, and trundle off to the Edelbrock show, hopefully to see Gene Winfield.

5/7/12

I took the KK to the Edelbrock show in Gardena, and it towed nicely.

I did make a few errors:

1-I forgot there was a string tied to the pinion yoke, and it wrapped itself around that yoke and worked its way under the seal, producing a minor leak while parked. Once it was unstrung and removed, and I moved the truck a few hundred yards, the seal set back down and no more leaking.

I also forgot to remove the billet yokes from the transfer case, and got just plain lucky that they didn’t fall off. One was a half inch from off.

Whew!

The response to the truck was non-stop amazement, questions, and many compliments.

I showed the truck to Gene Winfield, who said “I’d love to paint this truck.” I told him I only half-joked to others that the first thing you’d do is melt all my lead off.

He said no, but that I DO have some problems with incorrect tinning in some areas.

This I know.

He enthusiastically promised he would show me personally how to tin correctly.

He also responded to my request for a price to paint it with a disclaimer that he ONLY does a specific and detailed written estimate. I called him today and left a message requesting that estimate, and offering to buy his bodywork DVD, as I just missed his last workshop.

I showed the car to Isky and Edelbrock after the show, and they both expressed sincere interest and appreciation. BUT, no sponsorships there.

I take it tomorrow to Rewarder for the headers.

I spent that latter part of today working on the left window system. We remade another piece of Lexan, as the first one JJ made ultimately didn’t fit, as it was too small in the upper rear corner.

I made another cardboard pattern, then another piece of Lexan, and tuned that a little. We got it in, and the repaired window motor separated again at the fix point. Kelly was bereft, and said just pull it out. I did, which was a no-big deal at this point, fixed it, got it back in, and installed the “brushes”, those felt sweeps on each side of the glass at the door.

This is ALL new to me. We’re doing pretty well here. The felt is cut and in, and the front channel is located, after I did my FIRST EVER aluminum TIG welding. I will have Dirk Craven come look at it next week for any tips, but we’re real close on good function.

5/9/12

I took the KK to Rewarder yesterday, and brought him the mufflers (I had forgotten them) today. He has already made several of the headers, and we are going with the rear down-discharge scenario. Jim is holding the mufflers lower so as to avoid a double bend up into the exhaust cavity, and provide some room for our potential 12-outlet can.

Rob Moore called today and said he is sending the two half-shafts out tomorrow.

And in a bizarre co-incidence, I happened to strike up a conversation with a guy wearing a Bryant name on his shirt out in Camarillo at lunch. Turns out this is Larry Bryant, whom I abandoned for work on the TBird a year ago after repeated unreturned phone calls. He noted he found out a few weeks ago he was suffering from black mold, and has regained his attention and energy. He apologized for the unreturned calls. He knew nothing of this condition a year ago.

I suggested he go over to Rewarder (he knows Jim and Brooke well), and see what he might want to do on the KK.

We’ll see if his attention is back to normal.

5/19/12

I checked with Jim, and Larry had not shown up as of a couple of days later, nor have I heard from Larry.

It is Saturday 5/19/12, and Jim has apparently not completed the system as yet. Jim is not overdue, and I expect to see the truck sometime around the middle of the coming week.

Here is a short list of immediate to do stuff:

Seats

Cooling

Instruments

Transmission

Computers

Wiring

5/22/12

Rewarder called and I was on my way to pick up the truck today when the dually showed signs of heating up. This has been an ongoing thing for a while now. PBB mentioned the crunched muffler might be responsible. So I am having that changed tomorrow, and if that proves to be the solution, two things will occur. I will save $5K on a new engine, and I can pick up the KK immediately.

The KK cooling system until this moment has been a ‘we can’t do that” experience. I FINALLY found a bright guy in Indiana (812) 897-5805 Shawn PRC prcsales@aol.com as the FIRST person/company with a NO PROBLEM approach. We’ve spoken twice today, sent some emails, and I’m waiting for Shawn’s next step. This guy is SHARP.

We also discussed some Condor stuff, and he might be helpful there, too.

So of the above listed items to do, we might have handled the cooling.

It appears I will need a pair of Meziere 55 GPM electric pumps for the system, one per side. This is a little over a grand for those two.

The headers came in at $2700 on Jim’s $2500 estimate, so there is precious little cash reserve now.

A nice construction job or solar install would work well at this point.

5/26/12

I spoke with Jim yesterday, and I could not get out there to retrieve the truck for the weekend. I need to borrow PBB’s truck on Tuesday to do that.

5/30/12

I sent a tow truck up Tuesday morning, but Jim would not release the truck without cash in hand. OK, so JJ and I drove up there, and had the tow truck come the following morning, today. The KK arrived here and is parked on the street overnight!

It looks SO cool. Man, what a presence, what an attitude, what a shape and stance!

We’ll roll it in tomorrow.

5/31/12

I was just so impressed with how the KK looked on the street. REALLY beasty, really cool.

So it’s back in on its rack. The exhaust looks nifty from below.

I’ll address adding a stiffener strip inside the hood, and get busy on the 2-step front tilt system.

I have not heard from Winfield, and will call him again in a moment.

Larry from Oxnard did NOT come by, so I will not pursue him further for any work.

I will speak with Shawn at PRC tomorrow and confirm some specs, pricing, timing, etc.

6/14/12

I spoke with Shawn a few days ago, and the short story is it’s about $4000 with some polished tanks and shrouds for the system. This would be 6 radiators, 6 shrouds, and 12 fans. Add the two Meziere pumps and we’re at $5K without the hot and cold holding tanks.

I am going out to the LA Roadster Show on Sunday 6/16/12, and I presume Rick’s HotRods from Texas, makers of killer stainless tanks, will be there. I will also look for the seat vendor and see more specifically what he has and how much $. I’m looking for a 17” wide seat.

So of the previous list of immediate things to do, the cooling and seats will probably be specified, if not purchased. PBB still claims interest from B&M on the trans and shifter. PBB further reiterates VDO is interested on the gauges.

That would then put us on computers and wiring.

I will also check out some interior trim pieces, likely billet stuff, for window actuators, door handles, AC venting, etc.

I did get some more ¼” x 1” hot-rolled flat steel for another hood brace. Kelly and I should get around to that after my (a week after the actual day) birthday party on Saturday.

6/17/12

I went to the LA Roadster Show, only to see some vendors in Bldg 4. I spoke with Imagine Injection. He would work a 10% off deal, putting the three motors at around $20K. He includes computers along with that, so I could save some wiring and computer expense. Too much for now.

I also spoke to a throttle body injection guy, who was around $4500 each motor for his tripower setup, but those needs a FAST or other computer, so back up to the $6K each or more area.

Again, too much, and not the look I am going for.

I also chatted very briefly with Jack from Matson’s Radiator, who commented as we walked that he felt my idea was not good for the cooling. I will call him at his shop tomorrow for more details.

I found a grille guy for about $4500 for polished stainless. He is booked for ten months, and is in Idaho.

And, Glide Seats has a 17” frame that finishes out about 19” for $650 (discounted) per pair with foam and sliding tracks.

They make a 4” tapered stand, but it is $250 per seat. I can do that easily for a few dollars.

I have a few thoughts for grilles and trim, and I need to get a hold of Robert Neumann, aka WOLFSHADOW, for some ideas and renderings. He has been WAY helpful all along.

6/25/12

Jack from Matson’s has finally returned my call with a message. I’ll endeavor to reach him tomorrow.

Randy came over today, a PLEASANT surprise. He urged me into installing the half shafts. We got the front one on, after he disassembled the CV’s and cleaned out the rust and debris. I had cleaned two of them, but the two on the engines were DIRTY.

We got the 1-2 connection in, but the 2-3 wouldn’t go. The shaft was about a half inch too long (we cut them intentionally a little long), and then the shaft would not go in the CV once I cut it down. These splines are REAL tight to start, so I have the shaft over at H&R Machine for some dressing there.

I also took the front step two tilt materials to Al and H&R, and he will be machining stuff up for tomorrow. He is leaving town on Thursday, so he is getting right to it. We did some re-design on the pillow blocks, making them into two combined blocks per side. I am also adding a center block which will be pinned to the shafts and carry the forward tilt pivot points for the Electric Life rams. This will also carry the front end level as it travels forward on step one of the two-step process.

Randy and I talked briefly about a double V-groove system to support the hood as it go forward before tilting. This may not be necessary if the rams do the job.

Al is also closing his shop shortly.

Crap! Just when I had a good guy close by.

He has a LARGE CNC machine for relatively low $, but it is too big for the garage. I COULD put it ON the rear lift. This idea, while compelling, is unlikely to be consummated at this point.

I returned all the body working stuff to Nick, so I have no more leading in the plan. I DO have a case of propane bottles now, though!

6/28/12

Nick returned the Bird to me today, not yet completely repaired, but enough that I can drive it, and put the dually in the shop for an engine repair.

I took the parts for the two-step front tilt system to Al at H&R Machine, and Al discovered after all was done that the head of his mill was off a few degrees. This has rendered the parts unusable, until he returns in THREE weeks from vacation. We will have to bore out the bushings, redrill them plumb, and put new inner bushings in place. Meanwhile, I have one side here, and while I can’t mount it or make it function, I can use it for mock up and figuring.

Kelly and I will address the list from 5/19:

Seats

Cooling

Instruments

Transmission

Computers

Wiring

PBB has come through with ZERO on sponsorship for the instruments and transmission. I have talked with Jack Matson, and he is sending me some info and his thoughts shortly.

The narrowest of the Glide Seats which I saw at Pomona are still too wide. So I either buy them and narrow them, or mock up my own.

I will do some research on wiring schemes, particularly the Imagine Injection package. Bob Ream of Imagine has a complete wiring package that goes with his system. If he buys a solar package, I can trade him out on some of that. I need to figure just what wiring I do need for the truck, and see who has what, or if I need to just do it myself.

Tammy Allen was at Barrett Jackson Orange County buying more cars. I called her museum and they have done zip about Joe to date.

Kelly and I will probably first address the right electric window (make a plexi panel), work on installing the mouldings and window brushes on that side, and perhaps make some modifications to the door jamb to have the proper ½” step on the inside.

7/7/12

Sent pix to Stacey David at Gearz, for possible mention on his program in which he will install a PBB air brake system. He is supposedly filming that segment on 7/9/12.

I have the right power window to complete (plexi), and install the felt and brushes, etc.

The front lift system is on hold until 7/17 when AL Ruther returns from vacation. He will essentially line bore the bearings on the slider system to get them square, install new final bearings, and then I can get on with fitting the system to the truck.

I am concerned that this setup may want to bind. Perhaps a tad more clearance and some lube on the bearing surfaces will handle that. I’ll need to have everything QUITE square in order to function correctly. The frame rails are certainly not square.

7-19-12

I went over to H&R, and we trimmed the center blocks about .060” on the two long sides, so as to provide clearance along the eventual mounting plate.

I am worried about the ease of movement, notwithstanding all this machining.

Al and I discussed the backing plate, and I am going with a MONDO ½” thick steel plate, with a machined flat surface.

Now, how to get that assembly onto the frame rails with twisting or warping is worthy of thought and planning.

I hope that welding it on the rails will work.

Meanwhile, Al is drilling and tapping the 5/16” x 18 set screws (2 per block) to hold those in place on the rods. I calculate about 5.5” of travel. I have some short Electric Life rams here, and need to find out their throw. I can always hook up a bell crank arrangement to get precise length if needed. I can also cut the thickness of the center blocks down a bit if it comes to needing another half inch or so of travel.

First, Al needs to finish the set screws, then I will make up a ¾” or so wood backing plate to try it out. If I have some ½” Appleply, that might work, too. Otherwise, I can piece together some layers of ¼” plate and give that a shot.

The front bulkheads for carrying the actual tilt pivots are then next on the list, once function is verified and alignment has been achieved.

I may end up with the linear bearings after all this hooha is done.

As I pulled into the garage a few moments ago, the KK was up high on the rack. The exhaust snaking out under each side looks cool.

7-26-12

I spoke with Wade at Drivelines today, sent him some additional pix, and we discussed the details of the setup, again.

I am going to mock up a 3” driveshaft for him using some drain pipe, take side pix, and see what our angles are. We’re shooting for 3 degrees or less on the front half versus the back half.

7-31-12

I ran another string line, and I’m just going to notch the crossmembers. I need to get some 44” or 5” thick wall tubing for the half moon reinforcements. The actual diameter of the driveshaft will be 3.5”, and the part near the front crossmember might be rather small, given that it is the slip joint place behind the center support bearing.

But I am going to allow for a worst-case scenario and make it bigger there.

I think I need another crossmember to carry the front of the carrier bearing plate.

I saw a rerun of the 2005 Ridler Award car build of Chip Foose, doing his Impression car. He notes that EVERY part of the car is THE car. I’d like the finished product on the KK to look like that.

The frame, once smoothed and bondoed and painted should look damn nice.

The other elements, such as the underside of the running boards, can be covered in metal, and should look quite nice.

The 2-step lift mechanism looks dicey right now. While done and re-machined, the rods seem to bind pretty easily.

First I’ll get them on mounting plates and see how they move. Next will be, if needed, tapering the bushings. Finally, if those fail, it will be on to the linear bearings for another $700.

PBB’s Gearz episode aired, with Stacey noting Bob was THE only one in the country offering this sir over hydraulic setup, and noting it makes HUGE pressure. I’d sure like to be driving that system right now.

I have yet to remove the CV’s and shafts and send them back to Moore. Perhaps later in the week when a few other things settle down.

9-11-12

I took a $5600 hit to my bank account balance, as WF debited something that had been refunded, although a bit lesser amount. Short story, I have that much less than I thought, putting me at around $10K in the bank. This is too little to be spending much right now. I MIGHT get the driveline done, but I will delay ordering the Old Air AC system for now.

Nick PROMISES he will come by tomorrow, leave his car, and take my dually back in for further repairs. If he deems the lead and bodywork to be OK, then I can move along in my clueless way and continue with the headlights, inner panel work, etc.

I CAN make a plexi window for the passenger door, get the felt and brushes in, and finalize that side.

The left front wheelwell opening has a little peak still, and I’ll see what Nick wants done about that. The 2-step hood opening slides still need to be mounted on their half-inch thick steel plates.

If Nick deems the metal OK, I will have it sandblasted and then get on with whatever I can do. If not, I’ll melt the whole 60# of lead off and go with MarGlas.

9-15-12

Nick did come by, and felt on the whole the lead was OK. I need to sandblast it to get the real answer. He would then epoxy-primer it immediately after the sandblasting to seal it, then do (most l likely I will) whatever bodywork ensures from there.

There still is the matter of making a separate grille.

And, I think I might put a shoulder/detail along the bottom of the cowl and door to blend the fender to the body, saving a two-step on the lift system.

I am going out there shortly (it is about 104 degrees), and mock up something.

9-22-12

A week has elapsed, and I never mocked it up. Perhaps tomorrow.

No less hot, but I might be able to make some time for it.

And, I should get on the headlights, so that I can finish the front end sheet metal work and get to sandblasting. I will cut out the grille at some point, make a surround, and the a “plug” for some one to  use for making a new grille.

9-24-12

I just got a notice in the mail that good ole Joe Montalto has a Chapter 13 Bankruptcy hearing coming up next month, and listed me as a creditor for $50,000.

I suppose this means I will be losing any chance of EVER recovering my money from him.

10-9-12

It took pretty much ALL day, but the three of us got the Powerglide bolted up. I replaced the two dowel pins with the longer units, but the trans just did not want to slide on. I had to trim the bellhousing a couple of times, and finally just had to cut out the finished opening Montalto had made in the rear of the cab, about a half inch all the way around, to allow the bellhousing to slip up into position.

The upper right bolt hole does not exist on my LS-1 motors, or I covered them up on all three engines. At some point I will take off the rear engine plate and see if I just missed it, If not, I will tap a hole there in the ¼” steel motor plate to receive a bolt.

The center (top) bolt hole is cut off my unit. I think I will insert a stud in this top hole in the block, and concoct a washer or clip to secure the top of the trans there.

It is very tough to get bolts into the holes, and I might need to create some little hatches or access holes in the back of the cab for this very purpose. I COULD perhaps put studs in a few locations.  As usual, we are having to make this up as we go.

I had cautioned Joe NOT to make the trans tunnel opening too close, but rather to leave about an inch or so all the way around, just in case a different trans might be used. He of course ignored that advice, so here we are.

11-3-12

Power Brake Bob just returned from SEMA, on my dime (more later), and called with 4-layer glowing sponsorship news:

1-Chevrolet claims to be willing to donate a 4L85 trans to my all-Chevy truck

2-Holley will donate manifold

3-Holey will donate computerized fuel rails

4-Comp and Crane Cams both are willing to donate camshafts.

For himself, Bob claims he can get whatever he wants for his 409 from Holley. Bob considers himself the father of the new 409 craze. Perhaps so, but he will get no royalties from Edelbrock or anyone else.

I am delighted at such news, and don’t believe any of it. Bob has timed this brilliant and uplifting news to coincide with his being a week late on his rent. He certainly works the shows hard, is affable, but from my experience it will amount to nothing.

I have offered him in the past a cash deal:

I’ll give him 10% in cash for anything he gets me sponsored. Get me a $6K tranny, and here’s $600 presto.

Would I like to be proven wrong?

ABSOLUTELY.

Meanwhile, we got the other window made for the right side, and installed the felts. I put some switches in, wired a battery to a buss, and we now have electric windows at the touch of a button. And they track OK.

Next I will remove the CV joints and half shafts and get them off to Rob Moore for clearancing by bead blasting.

I have not got enough cash right now to do the driveshafts, and might go with an Anaheim firm, half the distance of the guys in Mission Viejo.

I have the dually back, and some towing will show whether the cooling is actually cooling.

Nick is in a deep funk, and I cannot at this time get him to commit to doing the bodywork. It would be great for me, and good for him on many levels. However, it ain’t happening with him now.

I have to get going on the headlights and taillights. I’m pretty solid about using the VW lenses, but the rears are up for design. I’m looking for something art deco. I am particularly intrigued by the new Delahaye USA designs, particularly the Sultan, which uses ½” wide lenses along the length of the fenders.

This is just friggin’ gorgeous.

I would like to incorporate a roof-mounted third taillight using the same theme.

12-7-12

A month after the above entry, I have done little on the project. I did put some wiring and door release buttons sticking up through the wiper holes (for now), so I can pop the doors open and run the electric windows up and down.

Power Brake Bob is gone from the premises, so I doubt I will have much support in the future on the air brake system. It is supposedly complete and functioning. I’ll have to power up the compressor and see if that is so. I also need to connect some wiring for the emergency brake switches.

I THOUGHT I had come up with a plan to shoulder the side of the body behind the fender so that I could use the single stage electric opening of the front clip. I mocked up some foam board on the car, sketched a half-dozen alternatives on tracings of the body profile on vellum, and did some alternatives in chalk on the side of the body. It turns out the fenders don’t scribe a perfect arc on the body, so either the fenders need some modifying, or I go to the two-step system.

It might behoove me to take the front clip next door to Nick’s and get it sandblasted, and have him primer it, so that I might continue with a saved bit of metal there.

Once I finalize the tilt system, I can safely finish up the headlights and trailing edges, perhaps something like the Sultan photo above.

I am too broke presently to consider the costly next steps as outlined previously and repetitively.

 

 

1/12/12

PBB did some more brake lines tonight. I will do some drilling and tapping. I did put some backing under the lower lip of the rocker panel to receive the 10-32 bolts to hold the stainless line clips.

I finished up the right rear fender modifications, and produced a smooth bottom, eliminating the not smooth areas with more metal.

We did some more front fender work, putting in the edge band along the body, and adding a second rub strip on the body to receive the fender. I intend to put a small roller on the fender bottom to contact that arching element. If I can leave the rub strip metal, then its finish is handled.

So many details!

1/16/12

Nick suggested we try and OVER shoulder. That is, putting a cover over the fender to body junction behind the fender. I will mock that up this afternoon.

1/21/12

I bought some clay, more foam board, and tools and made the above-mentioned mockup. The following day I removed it, and made a 3-layer art deco style unit out of foam board. This is the ticket. Neat.

Now on to creating a few other touches around the car.

Last night at Bob’s was a 48 Hudson Terraplane pickup. I have never seen this truck, ever. It was dramatically altered, has a 1700 HP blown Arias motor, and is as perfect a show car as can be made. It was built by Dan Dowdy of Dowdy’s Customs in Arizona. He quoted $650K to build it, and noted he had over $250K in parts alone. I spoke with the editor of Trucks and Drive magazines, and he will be looking up my KK. I feel very good about what we are accomplishing as a garage build.

My fingers are getting relentlessly cut and splintered from the metal work we are doing I have to spend more time with gloves on doing this stuff.

1/24/12

The gloves are working well. Kelly and I did some serious metal work yesterday, doing the left front cowl area in a very different manner, with excellent results. The hood fitment was still not primo d=so after much attempting to bend, etc. I just cut the fender loose and bent the upper part to fit correctly to the cowl. We’ve added a stiffener strip below, as part of the already-intended stiffening plan, and after some additional trimming to the cowl area to clear the new metal, it fits nicely. We are now launching into the vertical portion of that stiffener, a sort-of-angle iron affair, cut custom made.

I put backing along most of the new seams this time, and it made for much nicer joins, and a much better panel shape.

Learn as we go.

1/25/12

JJ came around noon as I was gone all morning, and we worked on the left front cowl area. We built a Frenched-in pocket to allow the hood stiffeners not to gouge the side of the cowl. This took a recessed box and about ¾” deep by 3” x 7” set into the side. Even after that we had interference! We solved that by grinding down the under-fender stiffener rail about ½”.

I had clearanced the right side by cutting out some hood bracing. I will duplicate the left side over on the right, and we are going to open up the panels there and remake it (AGAIN) for now the third time,

Learn as we go.

1/31/12

We’ve added a third brace under each side, remade the one side again, so pretty good there. I had the KK up in the air and looked at the front wheel wells. From below they look terrible. From above, just fine. I think I’m going to cut them out and just do them perfectly symmetrical. I’ve asked Nick to drop by tomorrow afternoon to look it over before I do this. There might be a double-up here with narrowing the fenders, as you’ll see in a few paragraphs.

PBB has created a sponsor-request letter with links to the You Tube videos. He says he got a verbal OK from the CEO of Comp Cams/TCI/Inglese. If real, this would provide 24 stacks of injection, a 4L80E trans and converter, and 3 camshafts. This would be AWESOME.

I am going to call AL and Ed’s tomorrow and see if they are still on board for the sound system.

PBB also talked with Driveline regarding the driveshafts, as did I at the SEMA show, I will call Wade there tomorrow and follow up.

Gibson appears still on board, and I am intending to solidify the engine placements shortly to allow for the exhaust to be fabricated.

Rob Moore of Nitro Performance continues to stall on completing the transfer case, despite numerous calls. This has become frustrating now over four years into this piece of fabrication.

The GNRS was an inspiration for some design areas. I have also made a trip up to the museums of Mullin and Murphy in Oxnard for further deco-art input.

The art deco theme is solidifying, and several areas of the truck are now coming into focus with such design touches:

1-the fender top glass fins behind the headlights

2-The over-shoulder layered piece behind the front fenders

3-A roof scoop, ala the 58 Impala, for the third brake light

4-Interior curves and touches

I am itching to do some work in the interior. As noted ad nauseum, I must first relocate the steering further back.

I also talked with Scott Padfield at the GNRS about moving the front wheels out. He said new A-arms must be made for $900 to accomplish this. I might just cut the fenders instead.

And, the right front Electric Life hood ram broke (I was inadvertently leaning on it while welding the under-fender braces). I called John there and he is sending, for about $40, a new ram rod.

I also need to get with PBB about securing the locating pins for the hood, as he had found some in a truck catalog. I saw some pins at the GNRS on a similar hood scheme as well. I also saw a perfectly restored 48 Studebaker M5 pickup, the EXACT original car from which the KK was made:

How’s that for a restructuring of a vehicle?

2/4/12

Nick came by yesterday and we examined and discussed at length several aspects of the project.

Regarding the cowl work, he again said, “Great.”

That’s great.

Regarding the wheel well openings, he again suggested round tube (I’ve been doing that, of course), and noted he would tab the fenders to the body after making their final fitments.

The left side fender was reluctant to fit closely, so a few weeks back I sliced it half off, bent the hood to the cowl for a tight fit, and rewelded the fender.

On the right side, I had cut and pinched the wheel well opening near the front to achieve the same thing. I had done this pinch procedure BEFORE doing the left side. I now need to do the same fender slice, hood pinch, and reweld again on the right.

I am going forward with yet another remake of the wheel well openings. This may involve narrowing the fender about 1.5”.

Whatever.

More fun and metal working to be learned.

I am waiting on the replacement drive rod for the right front Electric Life lift.

I will dig out the EL window kits and see what I can fathom from them.

2/6/12

The rod arrived today, but will not get installed for a few days because:

I sliced the fender under the right hood dart (about 24”) and separated the hood area in question. It was SO simple to just bend it (the hood dart area) in slightly, get the proper placement, and tack the fender back onto the stiffener below. With that done, I tabbed the fender to the cowl, and today proceeded with making a new opening cage. I built a bending jig last week, and it came in way handy. It took several hours to get the radius correct, get JJ’s opinions to verify my observations, and eventually get the end pieces (complex curves) made. That done, I welded some tabs to hold the new rod in place, connected each end and made some final rotations of one piece, then cut the fender opening to very close to the cage. The cage is now about 1.5” closer to the wheel, and looks MUCH better.

I finally saw why I had such trouble with these opening. The fender is not symmetrical. When Joe remade it and widened it, he sloped it to the rear and made the front more than equally bulbous. It looks OK, but from the side, particularly down low, it takes precious little shading of the wheel with the opening to be dramatically asymmetrical-looking. No problem anymore there. This opening is quite good.

All said, I must now CUT OFF the fender. Yes, slice it right off. This is the sort of thing I had avoided early on, along with caging. But NOW, I have seen the light and correctness of Nick’s suggestions. So tomorrow we do the BIG CUT. When you hear about people reworking a body, this is what is meant.

There remains little of the original shape of the fenders at this point.

Not that anyone is going to know once it is painted, and I guess that’s the point. But then the whole truck is like this.

PBB had some good news today for his business, and hopefully the promised orders and business will come through for him. This will of course mean good things for me, as it will allow him to complete my brake system.

We are pressing forward with the sponsorship efforts. PBB has some big things possibly in the works, so all digits are crossed for those.

2/7/12

Today was the BIG CUT. The cage had been made, then fender tabbed to the body, so all that was left was to DO IT.

Here is the cut line:

Now here is the revised fender, back in place:

The extreme bulbosity has been eliminated, and the tires brought much closer to the sheet metal. The wheel well opening is better, of course. But the look from the front is less crazy, and the tire reveal is much tighter, and righter.

Here is how it looked getting there:

Here is the detached fender:

And now back on, showing the new wheel well opening:

There are SO many pieces to this fender now! I cut out the under-metal leaving a small overlap on the new pieces of about ¼” or so. This will finish out nicer underneath.

If you look closely you will see several HUNDRED welds. I have a nice sunburn, as I did them without a mask, just closing my eyes. I was so afraid to do this level of remake 6 months ago. But, now, here we are.

Nick, of course, was completely right about how to go about this stuff. I hope he feels vindicated and appreciated. He claims to be coming over a little later tonight.

So my progress is taking on big sheets of material, and doing perimeter caging as opposed to nibbling a little here and there.

Clearly, had I known what shapes, etc. would be needed, I could have done this from the beginning. And so could Joe.

But as he did not, I have had the steep learning curve the last 6 or 7 months.

As an overview, we have dramatically tightened up every aspect of the truck, including proportions, gaps, alignments, etc. This is tough and demanding stuff. My caveman level skills have progressed significantly, so I feel empowered to do more. Kelly and JJ are just delighted at what we can now do here.

PBB is ready to make more efforts toward sponsorship, so there is hope there as well.

2/13/12

Did the left front fender over the weekend. I narrowed it about 2” as well. I need a slightly wider arc on the wheel well cage as the left tire hit using the same measurements as the right. This was majorly frustrating, as I had to do the whole cage thing over. I kept the center portion, but remade the end pieces about a half dozen times. I rigged up a way to slide the fender in alone, and got it tacked up last night. JJ and I did the remaining welding and grinding today, and we cut the fender loose from the body. Here is the LF fender ack in place with the front curve relieve with slits and stitches.

I removed the old headlight started by Montalto, and put in a blank piece of metal. I will move the headlight inboard a few inches to match up with the narrower front now. I’m sure there are much better ways to do what I have done, but these procedures will have to do.

I am so anxious to get to bondo and get all the rough stuff covered and smoothed to flowing loveliness.

I got sunburned again today.

2/14/12

MORE sunburn. WHEW!

We reinstalled the inner fender braces, having to relocate the six of them. This meant cutting all the welds (MANY of them), re-bending, re-welding, and adding filler pieces. All good now, but a FULL day of doing so.

JJ did a wonderful job of welding as well, tacking a lot of stuff in place.

I have so often pined for bondo. I now pine for lead. I’m going to get some wax and give it a try tomorrow, as I have everything else here.

The front end does look better now, with the poofiness gone, and more the right-looking size.

I sent the Electric Life rams away, so it will be at least two weeks before I see them again (working). I have pondered about the interface of the front clip to the firewall, and what, if any, weatherstripping will be used, what channel or not will be needed for it, bump strips for the descending fenders, the over-shoulder thing, etc.

2/16/12

So we did LEAD today. I started by working on filling the trench in the top of the left front fender. It took about 15 minutes of overheating the base metal until I established a base temp and then dripped lead into the deepening mass on the fender. I then did the left door surround on the body. This went quite nicely. I have about a half inch deep lead pocket across the fender seam, and this may be too much material. I’ll do some checking with Nick and on line to see what the limit should be.

Nick says no problem on the depth.

But all in all, an exciting day of a new technique.

PBB and I spent until midnight last night putting in the brake system, bleeding it down, and getting it mounted and prepared for an air pump and tank. We had to jack up the front end and remove the tires to get to the outside top bleeders on the calipers.

While the pedal is in, there are no brakes yet until the air system is installed.

Next will be to put the bulkhead fittings in to bring air lines up through the back of the cab, right in front of the rear wall, for both the brakes and lift system.

The steering column drop, the 7” one closest to the steering wheel, broke at its pivot point. This is a $90 Borgeson piece. It is paper thin up top. I will have Joe Ziola or some other TIG-perfect person weld it up. It won’t be readily seen, although I will polish it anyway.

I may call Summit to see if they might replace it.

2/17/12

I took it to Ziola, and will call him in a few moments. He is just going to build up the area, and I will have to redrill it as needed.

2/20/12

Joe claims it is ready, so I’ll call in the AM and get over there if he is around.

We added patching across the “Grand Canyon” trench on the LF fender. I put a dozen sticks of lead in the first foot of the seam. This time, we bridged it with sheet metal. I worked my way to within 5 inches of the bottom of the fender.

Remarkable difference in the appearance.

Kelly is SO jazzed about what we are accomplishing, He feels empowered, and says he feels there is no metal work needed we cannot do. While encouraging, there is MUCH to learn here. But certainly leading up the moonscape on the fender is making a large difference.

I am out of full sticks, so I must get MORE tomorrow. Nick still has not made it by. Hopefully he will be again impressed once he sees it.

I will float the remainder of the LF fender, then move over to the right side. That side is extremely tidy, with mostly just the little seam all the way through it, compared to the moonscape LF unit.

I am getting onto the technique slowly (not so slowly according the JJ and Kelly). It should only get easier and better from here.

The big deal now is the headlight configuration. I have to find or make the guts of the light, and determine how to mount the VW lens.

PBB took off for Nashville, etc. today, and will return in 8 days.

2/21/12

More leading today. The fender is looking better as more gets done. I am waiting for a LOAD of lead to arrive in town tomorrow at West Valley Paint over on Sherman Way and Canoga, right around the corner from Nick’s place. It is almost $300!!!

That’s for 50 sticks weighing 25 pounds total. That’s a half pound a stick, about $11/pound, or $6 per stick!!

For friggin’ lead!

Wow!

I’ll be needing tanks of propane. If I have correct hosing for gas, I might use a BBQ tank.

I just talked with Gene Winfield ((661) 824-4728) about doing some leading and/or bodywork, He is going to the Detroit Show on Thursday, where they give the Ridler Award. He said he MIGHT come by tomorrow. Wednesday. I’ll resign myself to next week. It would be awesome to watch him body work and lead that thing! If the cost is not prohibitive, I’ll do some with him. I am going to be very interested in his reaction to our workmanship. He may just want to tear off the panels and start over.

JJ made the “deco” side moulding in plywood for the fender return. It looks pretty good. We need to play a little with the scale. But I think it works.

2/22/12

I got the lead at West Valley Paint and put another four sticks on the fender. Looking better! Kelly is just amazed and inspired.

No Winfield, as expected. So next week sometime.

2/23/12

Did yet more leading today, but progressing perhaps a few inches down the fender. I am attempting to get the finish near-perfect in lead. This is a LARGE Undertaking, given that a trench about ½” deep or more was filled, and the width of the fill is 4 inches. The length of this is about 3’, plus the areas at the rear of the fender, the sides, etc. This is HUGE leading. My difficulty at this point is getting the finish almost paint-ready. I have gotten the deep filling down, but getting the compound curves of a rounded fender is tough. The technique I’m using employs a 24-grit grinding disc followed by an 80-grit orbital sander to see what is flat or not. The lows are immediately obvious. However, getting TO that point where the curves are good and just lows are needing filling is a WHOLE lot of work. Each stick of lead is $6, and it is eating them like licorice. It is also quite tough to just spot in the little lows, oddly enough. Whatever, I have stood at the fender for DAYS now, doing this intensive work.

Gene Winfield could do this in certainly 1/10th of the time, and obviously as good as any human on earth.

We’ll see.

I stumbled upon a picture of a 37 Graham, and fell in love with the headlights. I am a former member of the Graham Owner’s Club, and started calling around about these. I contacted Bob Feldes in North Carolina, and he is sending me HIS spare headlight. Now that is a community of nice people. I am going to possibly make a mold off this and reproduce it, perhaps in quantity.

For now, I need to hold it up to the fender and see just what is possible. The curve of the eyebrow is critical. I might have to just make my own. But check it out here:

Isn’t that just INSANE? It is exactly the art deco look I want. And no one will have a clue as to what the truck is once those are on. I could perhaps use some grille cues from this car for touches on the KK.

Feldes sent me the part within an hour (by UPS, to arrive next Thursday). He is off to Australia for a Graham fete there.

2/24/12

I have reached appoint in leading where I once got with bondo: I just can’t seem to get the final finish really good. I have gotten a few places just excellent. However, as noted above, filling in the little voids and getting the final line on the top is proving difficult. For now, I can get about 90% of it there, and will have to await Gene Winfield, Nick, or more expertise on my part.

Here’s how the much smaller gap on the right fender looks:

I added a second over-patch to the LF fender to reduce the amount of filler needed:

I had REAL trouble keeping the lead on the vertical surface. I will wait on the verticals until I can turn the front clip up on its end for a horizontal surface or get WAY better at this.

PBB called yesterday from Nashville to report he has met with the Powerblock TV people, Kevin Tetz, etc., and is meeting with Stacey David today. He claims B&M is interested in the KK, and they want him to call them. No luck yet on any of the other potential sponsors there.

2/25/12

I am getting burned out on leading (pun intended). I don’t seem to have the touch yet for that final perfection, as noted above. But there are many areas to be filled, if not to paint-ready perfection.

I do want Winfield to see what’s been done, in case he needs to melt it all off!

I am excited about the headlight change. We’ll see now it looks once it gets here.

I still have not connected with Ziola to get the column drop back. Perhaps tomorrow.

I am planning on a San Diego two-day trip to see Rob Moore about the transfer case and half shafts, and get some quality time with David Sider.

Bob returns Tuesday, and can probably work on completing the brake system, as the tank and pump have arrived by UPS.

I may also break out the Electric Life window kits tomorrow and have a look.

AND, I need to get in touch with Neil at Hamrick’s to have him look at making some parts, like the grille, headlight mods, and some other touches.

Nick is just not in the arena right now because of his attention to his sick friend.

But Neil would be the guy in any event on these items.

Nick will likely never get around to the KK. He claims he’d love to, but chooses other stuff. Where’s that Mega-Lotto money when you need it?

2/27/12

JJ and I took the front clip off today, stood it up, and I have resumed leading the LF fender arches. It works SO much better on the horizontal!!

I am getting slowly better at this, and the fill here went pretty well. I have yet to hear from Winfield, but perhaps sometime this week.

Randy is tentative for coming over tomorrow and sharing his wisdom and company.

John from Electric Life reports that there was a piece of the old ram down inside the unit. All better He will pack them up tomorrow and get them off. I don’t know if there will be a charge for his work.

2/28/12

John at Electric Life is sending the units back, just for the shipping costs, about $20. I will consult him soon about the power window systems of theirs which I have and cannot figure at all.

JJ and I spent the day with him sharpening drill bits on our Drill Doctor machine, and I leading the back portion of the LF fender. It looks pretty darn good now, certainly WAY close for bondo work when appropriate. We tipped it up as predicted and that worked out great.

Kelly shot some video of the grinding process, and a little leading. I’ll archive that for Matt Sweeting for possible inclusion in some KK video follow-ups on U-Tube.

No word from Winfield. I called Nick who is still overwhelming himself with the care of his elderly and dying friend.

He promises to come by around 1 PM tomorrow.

Randy did not bless us today with his magnificence, but surely will soon.

I have been toying with the idea of changing the hood opening to a two-step affair. It sure would simplify some stuff, other than the building of the step one system, a slide out tray affair using some sort of industrial strength slides and another set of already-have actuators.

2/29/12

Nick finally got by today, and said I was doing “great” on the leading. He felt it needed no more work, and was eminently floatable with bondo. He recommended having the clip sandblasted and DP-coated (primer) for better adhesion. It is a simple matter of two bolts to remove the clip and take it next door to his shop for that blasting, and then have him shoot it.

We put the front on before he got over, and had some anxious moments as things didn’t initially fit well. A few changes of hole usage and all is pretty good now.

I am awaiting the return of the linear actuators, and tomorrow I will look at the EL window kits. I’ll do some more gap finishing in metal, and create a small lip at the back of the hood to allow for some lead filler at that edge. I could probably do the same lippage on the cowl side now that I have a bit of lead ability. But really, just a lip is needed, and as that will present as a metal edge, bondo will work just fine into that. I will likely lead it first anyway.

PBB returned last night, and it appears we will mount the air tank under the right seat in the formerly to-be hifi pocket, and mount the compressor up front, We MIGHT mount the tank up front as well, for better product viewing.

Once installed, I will have air brakes.

The steering column still awaits it relocation. I also have NOT gotten over to Ziola for the column drop repaired piece.

3/1/12

Ziola is not answering his phone right now. I did some more lead on the right fender, to fill in a flat spot about half way around the top. There is some asymmetry in the fenders, thanks to Joe. I’m not going much further with that. The headlight deal looks to be the bug units after all. The Graham looks interesting, but the fender is just not right for it. So I’ll pack it off and get it back to Bob Feldes.

I will now address the final gapping on the hood to cowl. I’m still a little uncertain about going to the 2-step front opening. But for now, I’ll gap it with the single pivoting system.

3/1/12

When I narrowed the fenders about 2”, I removed Jerkin’ Joe’s headlight opening, as it was in the way.

I replaced it with an under-patch.

I removed my under-patch of the left headlight by cutting it out, and have re-welded it as the flush and proper piece it should have been.

Here it is with the welds, prior to leading.

This is how it should be done.

I am now out of lead, again. So there is about 40 pounds of lead on the front end so far. It is MUCH more solid sounding and feeling.

I think we will need to egg-shape the left front mounting holes to move the clip back about 1/8” inch on the driver’s side. I will then re-weld the unused holes in the mounting tabs.

We found the left side suspension is about ¾” inch up compared to the right side. Given I can jack up the coil on the left side, I can get the fender reveal correct over the left tire. I just need to locate the proper spanner wrench designed for this very operation. Scott Padfield of Scott’s HotRods is ordering me one for a mere $35 plus shipping. One does not get a free wrench with the $16,000 frame and suspension install.

It appears we are going back to the VW headlights for the KK.

I like the Graham unit a LOT, but there is just way too much to be done to make it viable. The laid back VW lenses will do nicely. The projector portion of the light mechanism can be detached and mounted in its own way, complete separate from the existing light lens and housing. I’ll do that. According to a person who appears to know, these are not Xenon lights, but Halogens.

Whatever.

I am heading over to Ziola’s right now to pick up the repaired pot metal piece. It will not be ultra-strong, and it was not so in original form, either.

3/7/12

PB and I spent some time mounting the air tank, air pump, and 3 firewall penetrations for air brake lines.

Today, JJ and I drilled 4 holes in the floor at the very rear of the cab, two per side, for the air lines for the bed lift system. We took over an HOUR to drill only TWO holes, using a variety of bits and drills. Like kryptonite.

It took only 10 minutes to do the other side. Originally, I was going to mount these in a different location, but they would be too much in the middle of the seating mechanism, etc., so I put them at the extreme rear of the cab. It will be fine.

PBB has been gone all day, so he will not be ready to run lines until tomorrow.

JJ and I also mounted the air lift system regulator on the brake pedal bracket under the dash. My first choice was on the front of the air tank bracket, but PBB thought it better under the dash. Anyway, that’s done. So now PBB can run his lines.

I need some newer bulkhead fittings for the floor penetrations. For now my older, crusty pieces will work. I’ll find a routing for both sets of lines along the center of the floor, under what will be a console.

I will mount the airflow valves now presently on each cylinder to a new place, probably inside the cab, or perhaps under the cab in the riser tubes from the frame. This will clear the rams for PBB to make stainless lines. We still need to make some bulkhead tabs at the front of each cylinder on the frames rails to receive the transition to nylon from the stainless each way: up to the rams and forward to the risers into the cab.

Randy spent the day here and said he thought the leading was “great.” This is yet another pretty informed opinion.

Cool!

We did relocate the LF mounting hole, and got the clip in nice and tight.

HOWEVER: I now see I need to go to the two-step (forward, then up) lift system. I can’t really make a straight pivot clip fit the curved body well.

So, more design and engineering.

Neil from Hamrick’s came by yesterday and had some interesting ideas for the car. One was to create a molded–in bumper at the bottom of the front clip. I had NEVER considered anything bulky down there at all. We will mock up some designs and see what gives there.

His reasoning is sound. We’ll see how this goes. He had some opinions on how to do a grille. At this point, nothing is decided with him.

3/8/12

Kelly and I att5acked the steering column today, and the short of it is we got it relocated, including fabbing a special piece to do so. As you  recall, I had Ziola fix the pricey Borgeson upper =mount bar, which turned out to be chromed pot metal, and paper (really) thin.

The longer mount, the 7” drop, WAS on the rear portion of the column. I left the old front mount, and set a new front mount with the =longer drop, as it needed to reach high up into the dash anyway. It required being mounted close to the roof of the cowl, leaving no way to attach it. So I duplicated the upper mounting piece in steel,

welded a ¼” steel plate the same length up into the underside of the cowl, just back of the windshield wiper motor opening.

I then welded the new upper saddle piece made from steel to that. It bolts to the Borgeson drop perfectly, and the steering wheel is secure at its new location.

PBB finished up most of the brake system tonight, needing only a couple of fittings and some tubing to complete, plus finding a missing pressure switch. I’ll spec where the pump wires go through the firewall in the morning, and we’ll grommet those. The air controller board for the rear lift system will go on the back of the cab behind the passenger seat. PBB claims he has a way to eliminate much of that stuff with some other valves. For now, I don’t see the point, as what I have works. But if he has an inexpensive and more compact way to do this, I’d be a fool not to entertain it.

West Valley called and the 20# of new lead is in and waiting.

I need to get some seats going, as we have reached that point with the steering in place. I need to locate a throttle pedal both figuratively and literally.

But I need THE seat to do that.

3/9/12

Got the lead, now to make or get a seat.

3/11/12

Bob has essentially finished up the system, have mounting of a few things.

I drilled and grommetted the wiring through the firewall, and installed an 8-space buss bar for the 12-volt hot in the right kick panel. We now have the front lift system and the brakes hot-wired to this buss. This will prove helpful interimly for new electrical connections until I get a full-on harness and power distribution system (relays, wiring, and fuses). I also welded (5) 5/16” bolts to the upper inside of the firewall. One for ground, the other four to use as posts to route wiring up along the top inside of the firewall. Bob may drop some J-hooks from these. For now, they just hold up wire.

I may do some more leading in the AM.

The steering column needs the final length piece of D-rod cut and installed, and it should be good.

For real progress, I need to get down to San Diego and prod Rob Moore to finish the transfer case and make the (2) 8” axles for the CV joints. I will also work on aligning the engines so as to have the truck prepared to go to Gibson for the exhaust.

3/12/12

JJ and I went at the dash today, after correcting the steering column. It took some doing, but the column needed a new D-rod link, some reliefs cut into one joint, and the mounts remade (AGAIN). I made a new upper piece for the now-front Borgeson mount, and had to make another new top for the repaired, but now broken, rear mount.

I masked off the actual opening needed in the dash after the final fitment of the column.

The neat round hole was NOT in the old piece. Rather, it was a series of cuts to allow the column to fit during various stages.

So here is the new panel:

So the above picture is the left side of the dash with patch panel in place ready to get the steering column hole cut in it.

I couldn’t resist leading the patch.

I need to get Al&Ed’s John and/or Gabby to renew the commitment to the hifi, and to start working on the interior to accept it.

3/17/12

I did a little lead work on the left side of the cowl. The curve was actually a large 3” wide flat spot, so I leaded it up. This is how it came out on the first grinding:

PBB needs to take a peek at a little leak from one fitting. Otherwise, the brakes are good to go with air.

The steering appears solid now with no binding or deflection in the array of u-joints.

3/18/12

I did some leading today on the right fender. I’m improving a little bit each time. Sensing the base metal temp is THE key right now. This is PARTICULARLY true on vertical surfaces.

Too cold, no stick.

Too hot, no stick.

I’ve improved my paddling as well, getting a smooth finish on the first pass, with much less voids. But more practice is needed and wanted.

JJ and I talked about the front lift system, the 2-step, and we’ve agreed on an outer side of the rails with one above the other configuration. This seems to me to be the strongest in the vertical plane.

I need to find my VERY expensive 6’ length of 1” stainless rod Rockwell 60, left from my patented ski training machine prototype (SKEASE), or go buy some, about 4’ or so.

I will likely have Al at HR Machine make me up the steel blocks, etc.

I’ve already added close to 60 pounds of lead to the front end, so it better be good!

3/21/12

PBB fixed two leaks today. The pipe threads on two bulkhead fittings were just not quite doing their jobs. Bob re-tapped the threads, and all is good.

So the brakes are good to go.

I had him keep the manually locked out emergency brake setting right now so we are not put in a position of the car being locked in place without air pressure.

I have pretty much used up the newest 20# of lead, putting the total on the front end at around 65#.

I found some non-stick edges, which I ground back. I tried a little different procedure and refilled some of these spots, some with success, some not.

I need Nick over here to critique, and perhaps show me. He has some issues, and likely will not come here for at least a few more days.

On the phone just now Nick noted a different technique on tinning, which has me wiping off the first application of lead, once it has mixed with the flux and melted/bonded to the base metal. I recall seeing Papa Joe do that now that Nick has mentioned it. I asked JJ and few days ago if he remembered that, and he could not. Nick says once that is done, then I can go back and pile on the lead. OK, one more thing to try.

I got the spanner wrench in the mail, and JJ and I adjusted the coil over on the left front wheel well up to the same clearance to ground as the right side.

3/28/12

I spent some time this afternoon jacking the motors up and down (and sideways) to get close to perfect alignment. One of the most difficult parts of this was getting the oil filler/breathers off the valve covers!!

Really!

Man, what a deal. I finally had to remove the covers, and PBB and I finally got them off. What a crock of a design!

Anyway, tomorrow will see Kelly and JJ and I moving the motors a little more, shimming, and then drilling new alignment holes for the ACTUAL placements of the motors.

PBB says now Gibson’s brother must clear the OK for bringing it down for the promotional exhaust.

Whatever, the motors will be aligned tomorrow for whatever is next in that area.

Rob Moore is supposed to have the transfer case ready in about 10 days.

Here’s hoping.

I had a fellow drop by today, offering to spend some time on the KK, as a body and metal fabricator person. He wants too much for me to afford.

He appears interested, and said he might do some “mercy” (my word) work on it for cheaper. If so, that would be welcomed and wonderful.

3/31/12

JJ and I and Kelly spent two days aligning the motors. Of course this was a process, one which changed about three times as we went through it (them). I first had string lines across some key points on the motors I then realized after a day of shimming, etc. that the points were imperfectly aligned in the castings, so I picked the intake port surfaces and a casting line along the heads just below the valve covers. Using a 6’ level as a straightedge, we finally finagled the trio of motors into submission. Shims in, shims out, shims back in, and so forth. We were aligning if FOUR planes, so this was testy. The motors appear quite good now. Next I will drill secondary holes for pilot pins, and these will be the items that really hold things in alignment, with the bolts now in place just being additional hardware to hold things together.

Once the exhaust is done, I will come back and do a third round of mounting using the afore-mentioned stainless Heims and rod ends bitchin’ hardware from Scott’s HotRods.

For now. This will have to do.

If PBB makes good on his promises, Gibson will be taking the KK down in a week or two for the exhaust.

PBB is at Del Mar GoodGuys today, chatting it up with Nate Sheldon, president of B&M/Flowmaster and current SEMA president. Bob is working Nate for his own distribution of Bosch parts, and pitching Nate on a trans and perhaps other things for the KK.

4/2/12

Nothing firm from PBB.

Nick is getting over the loss of his friend to cancer, and is regaining his participation and energy.

He states he would love to work on the KK, but sees his obligation right now is to make money at his shop.

He has some dreams of building a street driver GNX with a 1000 HP KD motor (and saving the #-matching motor for resale).

I’ll be delighted if he ever gets onto the KK.

4/4/12

Randy showed up today, and his eagle eye noticed a few things. For one, he felt the engines were not quite perfectly aligned.

TRUE. But close enough.

He seemed baffled at why they needed so much shimming.

Kelly and I finished drilling and pinning the mounts. I used the rack jack to push up on the drill, saving untold hours of back and shoulder agony. It all worked nicely.

We located the electric window mechanisms, and I cut open a portion of the driver’s door for access for the unit. We are not sure which way it should face. That is, should the window be on the outside or inside of the motor. I asked Dirk at Economy Glass to come and look. If he doesn’t make, it, I’ll take the door off and run it over to him. I have a reasonable idea of what we need, although the details of tracks, felt, etc. are still not clear. Randy also noted that he hoped we had the door trims. If not, more fabrication for me or others.

PBB was not here today, and I’ll be attempting to get a commitment on the exhaust tomorrow.

If good, I will be off with the truck on the tow bar to Corona next week.

The transfer case is due to be done Friday by Rob Moore. I will be working a small construction job tomorrow (can you BELIEVE it?), and might not be available to go to San Diego Friday. So perhaps the weekend or Monday will see me down there. It would be nice to team up the run to Corona with the San Diego trip as well.

I cut a window pattern from cardboard, and have a little better grasp of the system. I also wired up one unit and I see the whole system must be bolted in place in order to work with the cable push/pull arrangement.

Nick says he is coming soon to view the lead and get his files.

4/11/12

Nick has not made it, and I have visited him several times.

Randy dropped by today, and we went at the windows. He noticed with his reading glasses that the motors were marked right and left. I did not see this, and had been trying to put a right in the left door.

We finagled the left side mechanism in, and noticed that the original setup I had been trying actually had a detached cable sheath, hence I noted above it needed to be bolted together to actually work.

We pulled the unit apart, drilled out a portion of interface, but could find not appropriate adhesive.

I put a call into John at Electric Life about it.

I did NOT break this connection, it was faulty from the get-go.

There is also a question of cutting the vertical track to height.

The exhaust is essentially a no-go. Gibson is booked through the end of the year on complicated stuff, and only has some truck-type headers. I’ll look a little more at it, but I think those are not appropriate to the install.

So the grandiose promises (well-intentioned, certainly) are coming up fallow.

This is not a shock.

PBB did provide Internet and YouTube exposure, and has talked the project up in some potent circles. But nothing has come of it all.

It’s all no until someone says yes.

The prior period of hope about serious sponsorship is sort of like dreaming about winning the lotto. It is all pleasant and makes great sense, but in the now it’s still just all dreaming.

Perhaps Stacey David will provide a kick for the project when he sees it.

The Impala sale funds are nearly gone, and with the large junk to be given to Rob Moore tomorrow, there won’t be really anymore reserves. So it will continue to be just whatever it is I can do personally on the car.

I need to remind myself to call Al & Ed’s and speak with John Haynes and or Gabby about the KK system.

4/15/12

I talked to a fellow I met today, John, at the B/E Customs show. He came over and we talked about him building some headers. He recommended available block huggers and making the connections in stainless. He will call me Tuesday with some pricing and thoughts.

I retrieved the transfer case from Moore, and it is installed, and cost me $1500 less than I thought. It looks killer, and moves us a step closer to function. Moore is making the two connecting shafts, set for about two weeks.

4/16/12

I removed the two temporary struts under the steering link supporting plate just below the left front floor, and installed a corbel-like support under it.

Looks better.

I was going to make some for the running board bracing under the cab, but it appears the system really doesn’t need it. I have the template, so I can always do it.

As the transfer case is in, I can now address the mounting tabs for the front brake line along the back of the front crossmember. This entails drilling some appropriate holes for 10-32 tapping, doing the tapping (arduous), and installing the chromed half-clips. The arduous part is there is often little or no room for a standard tapping tool to make it go quickly, so a small crescent wrench ends up being the tool.

I noticed the visual line from under the truck show a very slight non-parallel on the bottom of the rear fenders versus the back edge of the running board supports. I will need to make some mods to the bottoms of both rear fenders to correct this.

I went to the B/E show as noted above, and marveled at how clean they make their work. I am inspired to do the same. This is known as quality.

BACK    NEXT