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12/1/04 Paid Ted Davis the last $341 on the truck through PayPal. No word yet on a pick up date for the truck. I have paid the deposit, and it is a confirmed haul. Ted has said it is safe where it is, and time is not a problem. I got an email from someone doing the same swap into an 87 single rear wheel 1-ton. I gave my input, suggestions, and an offer to sell my entire setup, minus the body. I'll post an ebay sale on the stuff next week.
12/6/04 Talked with Able Auto Brokers, and they are “putting money” into a truck to get it towed. This translates into them offering more $ for someone to pick it up, coming out of their quote of $995 (up $10 from the original $985 quote). It has been a month and still no takers. Ouch!
12/8/04 Went on line per Randy's suggestion and got about twenty quotes! Called most of them, and here's how this all works: most are brokers. They post a price for the vehicle, and wait for takers. Able Auto has posted a rather high $920 (out of their $995 price), so are not looking to really make anything on this. Still no takers. So the next step is to find owner/operators with their own rigs. They can “schedule” a pickup date, and cost more. Most will offer an upcharge to “schedule” quickly. I got some firm quotes at $1150, with a pickup around the 28 th of December, and this is not an accelerated schedule. The NEXT date is January 4 th . In talking to several people, one fellow, Bob, at Instant Auto, suggested I call a friend of his who is shipping a car for him from Jersey . I did so, and after a few phone tags, worked a deal where I will have these guys meet the truck 60 miles from its rural location at a more friendly spot off a major highway in Harrisonburg, VA (NOT West VA). Ted Davis and his son are being very co-operative, and fully understand the reluctance of rigs to go rural to get the truck. So it appears that come Wednesday through Friday of next week (12/15-12/17), the truck will be procured next to Hwy 81 and be on its way here for $1050. I have emailed Able Auto and requested they refund my $150 deposit. They have no trouble with this. So a few hours on the phone has opened up the industry a bit to me.
12/17/04 FHT Auto Transport had agreed to pick up the GMC, if I would deliver it to Harrisonburg on Wednesday, right off Hwy 81. I did have Ted Davis do that. He left the keys in the truck's gas tank door, parked OUTSIDE an auction facility literally nest to HWY 81. It is Friday morning at 8:42 AM , and I'm hanging on the line to see if the vehicle has indeed been procured. The truck could be seen literally from the Hwy, located at the bottom of the 3243 offramp. It was picked up, but on the way OUT to New Jersey (because they had promised to pick it up by a certain date). So it will be leaving NJ tomorrow or so, and will be here is possibly another 5-7 days.
12/20/04 Got a call from FHT saying the truck will arrive either Tues, Wed, or Thurs of this week. HOORAY!! One more vehicle to park, one more possibility for getting the project done.
12/21/04 Just got a message from FHT. It's 3:14 PM Tuesday afternoon. The truck is in Arizona and should be here within 6 hours. I've got to boogie to the bank and get $1050 cash, and get a major deposit in for my refi, all before 4 PM today. Of course, I'm on hold with a billing company trying to clear a mistaken bad credit mark. Ah, no pressure at all!!
12/22/04 The truck has arrived. Starts right up, drives. I'm anxious to see it in the daylight.
12/26/04 The only thing about this project that stays the same is that it changes, daily. It appears swapping the bodies will be more complex than first thought. Also, fixing the 2003 truck to stock configuration is a MINIMUM $10K. That will put the price of the truck at $23K, no bargain. I have found a crew cab 2002 Duramax with almost 200K miles in beautiful shape for around $17K, if he goes for the deal. I MIGHT just swap out this 8K mile motor and trans, and sell off the rollover. I ALSO could put the brand new motor from my 86 in the crew cab, and off the 200K-mile used engine. I'm just getting deeper into this scenario, and I need to cut my losses and get done with all of this. My strong inclination is to go with the 02 dually, swap engines with the 03, and just sell everything else off. I would pull the hifi from the 86, put a gas motor back in it, and move that down the road as well. And, ebay the new motor and Allison trans. That will likely provide the most complete closure for all of this. Oh well.
12/28/04 In a mind-boggling series of events, this is now what has transpired. I HAD a deal for about $17.5 K on the 2002 crew cab dually in NY. I had basically thought it done, then someone bid the truck up from $13,600 to $19K at the last hours, making it economically unfeasible for me now. I had decided during this interim to sell off the 03 truck, and Ted Davis is looking for “George”, the fellow who wanted it. Failing finding George, I was going to list it on ebay. I already have placed a photo ad in Truck Trader today (a run-till-it-sells ad). As noted above, I had toyed with trading the 02 crew cab motor for the 03 low mile motor. Then Randy suggested I keep the new motor sitting in the 86 as a spare for later. The trade would have killed nay value in the 03 truck, so I kissed that idea off. When the 02 sold, I decided I'd just fix the 03. Just to make sure no bargain crew cabs were out there, I looked in ebay for similar deals, and found a complete 02 crew cab single wheel short bed truck with 212K miles for $15K, and then saw some NEW Duramax motors (long blocks only) for $6-7K. I then found a complete wrecked 03 truck with only 19K miles for $6K starting price, no bids. I talked to the guy, and we struck a deal, and he already has a thousand in his hands from me. All this has occurred in less than a day! It turns out he is considering finishing my project for me down here with his parts. So at this moment I've got the 03 up for sale, and am back to completing the 86 install as originally envisioned, although with some substituted LOW mileage and COMPLETE parts. I'll sell off my existing engine and trans. Given the prices out there, I should recoup about $6K for my engine and trans, making the swap a clean plate from here on out. If Travis is willing to do the electronics install for say $3K, I could be stylin' as originally intended. This will save me having to hunt and buy ALL the little stuff, and (God-willing) Travis does do this, get me expert work on the toughest part. Between Randy's and Roy's guidance, I think I can get fabrication for the mounting of the dash pieces, etc. done quickly. I MIGHT employ John Santiago (remember the milspec maniac?) to do some of this, IF he can do it quickly. He certainly can do it nicely, and NOT cheaply. The parts pickup will be made Jan 8, 05.
1/20/05 No pickup yet, as Ashok's truck, which I was going to use, has been under repair. We're shooting for next week to fly to Sacramento , meet with him, and drive north about 80 miles to get the parts. Travis is working on a time to come down and do the dash install. I have removed the 03 (brand new) Duramax and Allison trans from the dually, taken pix, and posted both on ebay. I will be posting the 2003 truck in a day or two.
1/26/05 Talked to SJ Chevy thinking they might want my Allison core 562-924-1676 Allison/Adrian-NO, HAS 40 OF THEM. To get a trans computer is $500 plus $400 reprogram. If the vehicle application doesn:t change then no reprogram is required. In my case, it will not change. Allison factory core value is $2500. Used core is about $800.
I also called United Trans Exchange in San Bernardino 800-527-1637. They have a Hicklin trans dyno and will test my unit for $250-WILL NOT TEST IF OIL IS CONTAMINATED. They will drop the pan to check for contamination before testing. I have listed the engine and trans on Ebay, and have gotten some questions and calls. It turns out my Buy It Now price on the trans is a steal. The lowest price on Duramax long blocks is about $7500, and I'm offering the complete motor for $5000. I put a call into Peter Chinn and left a message re: how much for a complete Duramax motor, trans computer, and engine computer. I got a call from a fellow who wants to do my swap into a short-bodied Blazer. I could be of great help if he buys my engine and trans, steering him to the parts he needs.
2/6/05 Sold off the engine for $5000 and the trans for $800. So I'm about $11 to the good on those two items. Sent by yellow freight to separate people back east. The 2003 Chevy 2500 diesel is NOT moving well on ebay. It already lapsed on the first go around, and is languishing on the second listing, at $100 plus per pop for fees. This is a little shocking. It makes me re-think about just swapping the body. I could sell of the near-Sacramento truck and parts for cost and move on. I will likely go get the stuff and finish the install. More fun.
2/8/05 The “hulk” has twice not met reserve on ebay, and a few local guys have come buy to see the truck. One interested fellow has returned with a body man to estimate repairs. It looks promising. Another fellow who is quite local has failed to show. Shocking, isn't it? The NoCal truck is still sitting there waiting to be picked up. I have endeavored NOT to spend a boatload of money driving my gas-engined work truck a thousand miles and at 6 MPG. Friend Ashok has his Isuzu diesel flatbed back in the shop for a transmission problem, so that sweet connection is still on hold. He goes to Sacramento every week, and usually comes home empty, so this would be a natural. I have flashes on just wanting to switch the body onto the 2003 truck. If someone buys it, that option will vanish and I can continue on with the dually conversion.
3/12/05 One thing is for sure: NOTHING is for sure. Ashok never got his truck to the shop, despite my repeated offers to help him. I Put the 2003 1500 on ebay twice and did not make reserve. I had three people come look locally, and one offered $11K. She called back today and I countered at $11,500. She's thinking about it. If she buys it this means I will have lost about $1700 on this nearly new truck. I COULD repair it and try for a salvage title sale. But, dude, I'm trying to cut down on projects. So the short story now is: Through a connection I met up with a lovely fellow named Alton Smith who should be arriving within the hour with the Cobb, CA wreck on his flatbed hauler for $800 towing fee. He will return later in the week to haul off the carcass to a crusher. Monday morning, Brett, Chris, and I will haul into the HULK and strip what we need. Brett is electronically and auto very savvy, and I think we can come pretty close on our won figuring this thing out, now that I have will have all the necessary parts. Roy is poised to continue, so I'm actually excited about the possibilities now. If the Red 03 is sold, that will free up some dough and space.
3/14/05 Alton did not make it at 3 PM , rather about 9 PM . He and his friend Eddie backed their rig ALL the way into the garage, WITH the wrecked cab ON the truck. We had to move it back out in order to raise (tilt) the bed to slide off the frame. We did, onto 5 dollies. Ultimately a couple of dollies failed under the load. We then slid the cab down on the driveway, and this morning Brett and Chris and I put it up on two dollies and wheeled it around as needed. The abbreviated frame is inside the garage, and Brett ahs been tinkering, unbolting mounts, figuring out what goes where, etc. Tomorrow morning at 6 AM he will continue. We're working on a way to lift the engine/trans with all the accessories attached. This will require a little more thinking. This HULK has MUCH more of what I needed: fuel and engine and trans cooler lines, accessories, oil cooler, intercooler, radiator, fan, condenser, etc. And with the complete 03 outside, we can do a little looking to see how it is supposed to go. We're going to have to remove some lines as they will undoubtedly get crushed trying to slip in the whole package again. But we're looking MUCH more hopeful at this point. Travis reiterated that the gauges are in the box in the cab, and we'll get to that later tomorrow or Wednesday. I'm shooting to have Alton pull the frame and cab away on Wednesday. I actually have construction work for Chris and Brett, so it is taking a little more time to jump on this, as I can actually have them out MAKING me money for a change. What a concept! The dually hood got scratched, notwithstanding the foam blocks and shipping pads surrounding it. That we can chalk up to guys just sliding it along the garage floor without regard to its condition. Without the cab and body, it is very clear just how much wider the newer frames are (about 8”), taller, and a bit beefier. Small wonder I had to hack the 86 dually rails to get the monster in. A no surprise observation at this point: I would have been WAY ahead of the game to have just waited until now to buy a good used dually Duramax for the low 20's, and sold off everything else. But hey, where's the fun in that?
3/19/05 Brett has been involved with Condor repairs to the ABS, speedo, etc., so has not had time to do much on the Duramax. We have only a few hours of sifting through the cab to do. And I bought a very heavy-duty dolly today which should allow us to pull the engine/trans and put it on a rolling platform. M/M Tools also has a set of incredibly-rated double wheel casters (one ton PER caster!!!), so a set of 4 for about $300 would give me 8000# rating. I MIGHT just buy them and make a steel-framed dolly, and/or make a set of car casters with them as well. They can be unbolted and used each way. OR, I could make the individual four wheel dollies, AND make them convertible to a single dolly, much like I did with the FC body dollies. All I'd need to do is make the dolly platform with recesses in the corners for the wheels dollies. We'll see how the new unit works first, and if it fails, well, I think I'll move forward on those monsters.
2003 TRUCK I took the 03 on a flatbed to Mike's Frame today. It would not start, having gone battery dead after a month plus sitting out front. Shouldn't have died. After much prodding and jumpering, we got it started, let it idle the whole ride over on the flatbed, and drove it into Mike's yard. He estimated $775, and I signed an agreement for him to straighten it. He thinks the core support will come down, which will make the truck drivable once the windshield is replaced. More precisely, I can register it, get plates, and drive and park it on the street, which will be a BIG plus. While it looks like hell, all the doors shut, and only a fresh windshield would prevent it from passing a brake and light inspection. Obviously no smog is required as it is a diesel. I have gotten some leads on where to get body parts, and I will be moving forward on that tomorrow by phone. It will be of great benefit to have a working clone of what I'm putting in the 86 dually, obviously. So, a lot of the anguish of decision-making is over and I'm making it a keeper.
DUALLY Nothing much has occurred other than Roy getting the engine and trans out of the hulk's frame. We've got it up on the hand cart, a good thing. I bought a VERY sturdy cart from MM Tools for a $100, and it is doing the job very nicely. Also, the pallet jack we fixed a while back is proving great, as we are moving the cab of the hulk around on that. With any discipline, we could get what we want out of that cab, take a few items off the frame rails, and have the entire hulk GONE in two days. Alton informs me that paperwork is required to dispose of the frame and cab in the era of chop shops. I have no such paperwork, so we'll likely just take it to a metal recycler.
4/9/05 HULK Not a word from Travis. Looks like it will be a recycle run for the hulk parts. On Monday I am going to have Brett strip whatever is left on the frame and out of the cab, and get the hulk outa here. I spent half a day in the garage just putting away tools and reorganizing some shelving to receive tools. It is INFURIATING to continue to have to play nursemaid to their horrible tools habits. We're gonna have a BIG meeting Monday morning to get the procedure straightened out. This is sounding like Boyd Coddington's place.
2003 TRUCK Nick viewed it and quoted $2000 to fix the top of the cab and set the doors. I have found a bed for $700 at Skaug in San Fernando , and will pay for that Monday. I found doors in Fontana at $650 each, and will probably go with those. I now need to find a front end. I found a guy with a 2-door cab and front end, but he won't separate them. So 2 out of three body areas seem to be under control, not bad.
4/15/05 Jorge turned me onto 4 sources for truck parts. Two were Taiwan new parts, two were junkyards. One “recycler” place up north had a cab and doors for about $3800 delivered to LA. I found another cab locally for $1850 with the left rear door, and the same color as original! I have a good right rear door needing only minor work, so I need two front doors. Nick thinks we might be able to get skins or frames and just reuse them. So I now own a cab, two doors, and a bed (paid for and marked and waiting for pickup, pun intended). It is appearing that this rebuild on the 2003 Duramax will go as expected, budgetwise. Brett can do the wiring and interior swap out of the dash, etc. We can mount the cab here. We can also install the new Taiwan fenders and hood here, and let Nick do the fine tuning. Mike has NOT gotten to the frame as yet. I will probably pick up the cab Monday, and as a bonus the supplier of the cab is willing to take my “hulk” frame and cab without paperwork. It also appears Brett has his eye on becoming a real estate agent, so his career here may be short-lived. For me this is just tragic. I will therefore press him to finish the Condor and the 03 DM truck. I think he is making a mistake going into real estate, but that's just my selfish perspective.
4/23/05 Randy shares my perspective, but it's not our call. Monday 4/25 is scheduled to get the Duramax engine INTO the dually, to allow for some wiring, mounting, layout, etc. The motor and trans will undoubtedly come out again once we've got things situated, in order to be Zolotoned our whatever I do to sweeten up the compartment. We will modify the stock 03 trans mount and crossmember to bolt to the dually frame, and abandon the prior trans mount we made. I will also have to do SOMETHING about the carved-out frame rails, and this go ‘round I'll do the cardboard templates for what I can to stiffen it back up. It is now time to get Roy back in the project. I think he and Brett can make MAJOR progress, while I continue to hustle the jobs and collect money due. 2003 DURAMAX Nick is due any minute to drive the 03 Duramax back here, so we can commence the cab switch on that. The frame came out nicely for $775, with two very minor “compensations” done for a slightly tweaked left rear spring, and right front steering knuckle. They are fine. I had asked Nick to use his dealer plate to transport the truck, to save me some tow fees. I attempted to register the truck on Friday, but the DMV line was HUGE, and the place packed. I'll go to AAA Monday morning and get it done in an hour. Randy sent me a terrific 91 car hauler in Minnesota on ebay, and it just makes me ill to see what could be had out there. I SHOULD dump the dealer AND the trailer and get this thing. But I'll stay with this plan for now and just keep it simple.
4/26/05 2003 DURAMAX Nick made it Sunday late afternoon
DUALLY Brett and Roy got the engine/trans in yesterday, and finished up today with some details. They could not get the right front mount bolt in, and I managed to finagle a way in about 10 minutes between moving the rear of the trans over 2 inches and tapering the bolt threads. The trans is now not centered on our original holes, and I don:t want to tweak it into place, a guarantee of never getting the front mount in again. So I torched an elongated slot for the mounts, moved them over, and decided to use our setup after all. I think the stock setup will put the trans too high. Anyway, it's done except for drilling out the tailshaft housing for through bolting. No sense in making ALL the bolts critical thread alignment nightmares. I worked all day with Roy with Chris assiting. Yesterday Randy was here and I set the 03 core support with all of its trick intercooler, radiator, shroud, and AC condenser, and desperately wanted to use it. Randy pointed out I would have no mounts for the headlights, grille, hood latch, etc. Do Roy and I put the old core suport back in, and I decided to just pass on the intercooler and go with the oft-mentioned Vortech “brick”, which would save all the hassle of trying to find space where there was apparently none for an intercooler. SURPRISE!!! After setting my core support and radiator and condenser in, noticed there appeared room for options. We dismantled the 03 core support, and found ANOTHER computer hidden in a n enclosure!! Whew! But the big news is that I trimmed the 03 condenser and got it to fit in my old space, with some notching of my core support. I then found I could mount the radiator and intercooler, which are already bolted together, using nothing more two newly welded nuts on the lower rail of my core support. Some artful notching, welding, etc., and BINGO! So we now have the 03 condenser, intercooler, and radiator all in, sweet as can be. I notched the top of my support (just the tiny lip) to allow me to put two straps supports to retain the top of the radiator/intercooler package. The bottom is supported nicely on its own mounts. WAY clean! Just a phenomenal two days of progress!! Wow! It is 4:30 PM and I just stopped for the first time ALL day to make 3 eggs (literally my breakfast). Oh, and the hood closes, too! So we have cleared some enormous humps, and Brett is now free to get on with the wiring, as the motor is in place, and may just stay there permanently. I did have to trim the front ends of the inner fender panels to allow access to the lower radiator mounts, and to make room for the lower radiator hose at the lower right front. Simple enough. We'll apparently have to modify the lower hose to get around my frame and other things, but will most likely use the two ends and do a little creative work in the middle third of it. Roy and I are also beginning to understand a few more things, where this and that goes, etc. And having my own 03 in the driveway SURE does help figure that out!! So this is easily the best two days in almost two years of this project. It also allows me to be of help to others who have a hunkering to do this to early trucks. As mentioned many times, the notching of the frame rails is a sore point. It is obvious why the new trucks rails are 8” farther apart! Of course, if I were willing to put about an 8” bump up in the hood, I could have missed that, but that's not how I wanted to go. I'm thinking I'll need to get the truck on a rack like Sepulveda Muffler's drive on, and do the bracketing and boxing of the frame in place. Very, very exciting day.
4/30/05 That exciting day was Tuesday. On Thursday, Roy came over and we did more on the truck. We got the trans mount almost completed. In order to get the engine mounts to line up, I had to scoot the trans about 1” to the passenger side to line it up. This put the trans mount holes out of position, requiring some elongating of the holes to line it up. I will weld some 1” diameter (the hole in the middle size) washers around the trans mount rubber sleeves to keep them in position, and that will secure that portion of the mount. We needed some large 5/8” lock washers for the bolts, which are through-drilled and nutted. The original Allison is a threaded set of bolts sitting on a trans mount. We are NOT forcing ourselves to have FOUR critically positioned threaded holes to line up the four corner of the engine and trans mounts. I had to buy ANOTHER 11/16” drill bit to drill these, just as I had done on the previous Allison trans. That is done, and we now need some 3/8” lock washers for using the proper sized bolts to hold the trans crossmember to the frame. I went to Wenco to get the missing u-joints straps (which I of course found once I got back, although only one, not the pair), and they are slightly too small for the rear end yoke joints, despite my repeated questions beforehand at Wenco about the sizing. So Monday I will return to Wenco and show them the proper size and hope they have it. On Friday I finished up mounting the condenser, intercooler, and radiator, including all padding, shim, restraints, and brackets. There were two screws sticking through the core support from the AC fan, and they pushed some fins aside on the condenser, hopefully not causing a leak. We'll find out when we charge it up. I may pull it out and take it to Sam up the street at Allstate Radiator (and AC) for testing. It is quite easy to get the whole assembly out in any event. The cooling install being done, we cleared out the dually bed, aired the tires up a bit, rolled it out and with some serious muscle positioned it under the tent outside, and covered the bed with plastic. I set the hood on it, so the engine is covered in case of any rain. I can roll the welder out there and do the trans mount washers when needed.
2003 DURAMAX That cleared the way to drive the 03 truck inside, load its bed with all the Duramax parts from the Hulk, etc., and prepare it for having the cab transplanted. I have it front end facing out, so that the front end and cab can be removed, slid forward on the overhead winch, and dollied out front. We can then dolly the new cab in, and hoist it up and on. At least, that is the plan. In the process of moving stuff around, I tossed a bunch of T-bird parts, and sorted some old gas-engine dually motor stuff as well. It will go on ebay and in the Recycler ads, or in the dumpster. I put an ad out for the work truck, and it sold today. So come Monday, once it passes smog, it will be gone as well, and I will be $4000 more funded to finish the truck projects. This sale also puts pressure to finish up the 03 so it can be used for jobs. I NEED a work truck on Monday, actually! Of course, that will not happen. I MIGHT just use the old work truck for one more dump run before giving it to its new owner.
5/2/05 2003 DURAMAX Greg at GK Auto was not available today for the smog inspection, so we're using the old truck for some debris removal. I'm looking for 8 AM tomorrow to smog it. Meanwhile, Brett completely undid my loading job of Friday, took everything out of the bed of the DM, and put it in the dually and elsewhere. My thinking was he'd leave the bed on it, just remove the cab, and we'd pick through the stuff as needed. Oh well. He and Chris have stripped the bed off, we rolled it around to the other driveway, and we'll be using it as a sort of on site truck parts dumpster, to be hauled off soon. I will put a car cover or tarp on it to lessen the eyesoreness. It is blocking the Stude, but I'm not planning on any important trips in the Stude immediately anyway. I was going to get it off to the upholsterer, but we can move the bed as needed to get Stude out. The cab itself is unbolted and ready to lift off. Brett was shooting for a swap tonight, but I think it will not happen until tomorrow. The good news is that within a few days, the truck will be driveable with the fresh cab. Brett and I are intending to go to Gardena tomorrow and look at the front clip, cab, and doors and see if that's the way we want to go.
5/4/05 Brett and I did go to Gardena yesterday, waited for almost 2 hours for someone to show to open the yard, did see the 5 Chevy 3500 cabs. Only one was usable. I mean all were brand new, but were slightly damaged in some way. Oddly, they have NO VIN #, and are of Mexican origin. This is the first time I have seen such a thing. It looks like we will go this way, and hope to off the cab somehow. And speaking of cabs, using 10 people to lift it, we got the replacement cab ON the truck today!. It was heavy, and a major bitch, but with careful planning and execution it went well. Brett chose not to use the hoist to get it on, fearing damage to the cab itself. As of this moment ( 10:45 PM ), the engine starts and runs, all functions work (except the AC which has not been reconnected), and most of the interior is back in. Brett is ecstatic about what he accomplished today, and feels doing this swap was WAY good for knowing what to do on the dually wiring. The old bed is sitting in the east driveway, the old cab in the west driveway. Eddie is coming tomorrow morning around 10 AM to take them both away. AND, I sold the work truck today! Smogged, paid, gone, done! So things are moving along nicely. Now there is serious pressure to get the 03 done and usable. Chris suggested putting a dump option on the bed. I might very well do this. I was considering a utility body, but maybe a few small tool boxes and a dump feature might work.
5/15/05 The 03 got its cab, front end, and bed in three days this week!!! Two trans coolers got lunched by stupid errors (not mine), and I've used one of my PermaCool units to get me along until new ones arrive, one for the 03, one for the dually. That's a mere $300 for the pair. The 03 ran low on trans fluid, and the electronic shift solenoid has failed, a mere $25 part, but about $300 labor to install. It will come this Wednesday.
5/16/05 DURAMAX Doing a lot of hauling in truck with only 3 rd gear and reverse. I have not heard back from Peter Chinn as yet on the other parts I ordered: trans coolers, grab handles, etc. Ditto on the shifter solenoid at Rydell. Brett found the windshield wipers and washers were not working on the 03, and discovered the 02 cab's washer/wiper circuit did not match the 03 dash/original truck wiring. Go figure. He has apparently corrected that now. The truck is a dream to drive, and I am scheduled for this Thursday for the CHP VIN verification. Meanwhile, it runs about 200 degrees on the trans temp gauge using my PermaCool trans cooler.
DUALLY It has sat waiting for other things diesel to be handled. Brett will be joined by Roy tomorrow to get back on it and see just what is needed to get it running. While Brett is way not keen on switching out the dually steering column to the 03 unit, I am, and I hope we can make it all work quickly. There are some advantages to the new column, and some work needed to get it in the truck. I may have to let Brett wire it up and make some temporary switches for missing functions….but that will be told soon enough.
5/25/05 DUALLY It runs!! Brett started it several times, although the battery is low now, and I think the computers won't fire. It is surprisingly quiet without exhaust. There is a module with a problem, and we need to research that. I have decided to place the instrument cluster in the roof cockpit area, leaving the original instrument panel in place. There is ample equipment up there in the headliner thanks to Rob Anderson's hifi work of several years ago, so more “stuff” will fit in nicely into that scheme up there. All that will be needed is an extension cable and some fabrication and upholstery. There is a chance I might work on making it fit in the 86 location, but probably not. I will need to put a hatch in the trans tunnel to allow for access to a computer testing port. Brett suggested bumping up the tunnel to allow someone to reach up over the trans to plug it in, and I said, no, I'll just put in a hatch and make it REALLY easy. It appears Brett will stay through Friday (only a guess), and tidy up some details. From there, it will be Roy and me doing all the remaining fab work, changing brake lines, installing gas lines and tank(s). Brett also spoke with a fellow who had bought, then bailed on one of the two dash assemblies we have for the 03. It turns out this fellow just likes the newer dash and is installing an 03 in his 95 gas rig, so our diesel gauges were not appropriate. He claims it is fairly easy. Brett is stoked, but will not even begin on this phase of work now. We get the rig running for a few months, work out whatever bugs there are, see if the AC is compatible, then maybe make it a two weekend thing. This two-year stuff is WAAAAYYY old. I spoke with Travis (the Hulk), who thought the newer dash might be too deep, requiring setting the seat back a few inches. He also thought he had sent me the gas tank. He did not. He is looking for it tomorrow. That would help a lot. He also needs his title back to rid himself of some other parts. We'll work it out. He is also having trouble with the hop-up package on his 05 rig, and I may buy it from him.
DURAMAX Got the truck back from the shop in the City of Industry , and all is good now. So just about $2200 for a couple of dumb little errors. Consider the lessons learned. It is still running on the PermaCool trans cooler, but we have both new GM units here, and one is already temped onto the dually.
5/29/05 DUALLY With considerable difficulty Eddie got the dually on his truck and towed over to Sepulveda Muffler on Thursday May 26 th , 2005 . Kenny and I worked on some muffler tubing to connect the two intercooler runs, the lower radiator hose, and begin on the exhaust. As Sepulveda has no ability to bend any pipe larger than 3”, I am having to wait until next week for bigger bends to arrive to allow them to piece the stock exhaust into the chassis. Getting the dually on the tow truck was tough. Firstly, we had to remove one off the duals, as it was too wide to fit inside the bed rails of the tow rig. Then, it would not fit on the truck backwards, as the winch lost angle and the front tires never reached the bed. Then we tried wheel lifting it from the rear, but it was too heavy for the truck to pick up. So we pushed it out in the street and winched it forward direction onto the flatbed. No problem, although it JUST made it on. Meanwhile, Roy found that the spring and plunger from the brake master cylinder had been misplaced, so I had to buy another unit at Pacific Truck. I went by Tommy Lee Mfg and spoke with Tommy about the steering and brake hydro-booster, and he felt it would all work fine with the new power steering pump. He suggested taking it to Jim Orme to make the lines, and I will do that once Sepulveda is done with their stuff. I do have another source of lines and fitting two blocks away, and I will check him out (through Sam at Allstate Radiator) before going to Orme. I will likely use Sam's guy for the AC lines, and Orme for the power steering. Brett is no longer a participant, but will come on the weekends, he claims, to continue with the project. This coming week should see the lines on the steering and AC done, exhaust done, and the truck back in the garage by next weekend to begin fabbing the dash stuff, trans tunnel, etc.
6/1/05 The boys at Sepulveda Muffler are not quite done, having some difficulty with the down pipe right off the turbo. I have not found anyone, despite aerobic calling, who can bead roll the piping. So I will have no choice but to take the pieces to Hollingshead Welding and have Joe weld beads on them. Correction, Todd at Vortech thought they might be able to do it, so I will try them first. Brett has promised to come over Saturday after his hypno-therapy no-smoking session and see what we can get done. John Jarnagin and I spent half the day throwing out stuff from the garage, sorting parts, and stuffing parts into the 04 cab out front. We made significant progress on cleaning out. Much more to go. Any of you fans of my Funnycar Updates will notice this is a familiar theme.
6/8/05 Went to Orme yesterday with the dually on the flatbed tow truck. It turns out I needn't have towed it there, as I had to remove the lines from the power steering pump and trans in any event. We accomplished the intended goals, and today I found I had to do some more lines to include the radiator cooling tank in the trans cooler circuit. More weird metric fittings which could not be matched. So we opted to cut the clip-in piping a few inches back, put aa compression flare on them, and slip blue hose over those. Orme needs to give me some O-rings for the power steering fittings, and remake the other power steering hose so I can have clearance at the radiator trans cooler junction at the bottom. It is mind-boggling how Chevy or Isuzu can use apparently identical fittings for the cooler lines, yet have different threads at different locations. Really dumb. Roy is coming over tomorrow, Thursday, and he and will do what we can to install the trans cooler, run lines, and work on some fuel tank decisions. The new tanks are plastic, and there are some limitations to working with them, though not insurmountable. My tanks can be cleaned, coated, and worked on as well. I already have proper fit to the fuel doors on both sides, so just putting a crossover tube will make it all one tank. We need to make new in and out fittings for the diesel lines, and we'll undoubtedly convert those hard fuel lines to blue tube by cutting and adding a bead as with the trans cooler lines. We can cut them wherever they cease being convenient to my 86 chassis, mount the fuel cooler somewhere near the tanks, and perhaps measure my 2003 truck tank to see if a newer tank would fit. I'm guessing it would, but tomorrow will tell. All in all, really heartening progress. We might have this running this weekend when Brett gets here. We certainly can start it with the 5-gallon can. Perhaps I can amputate the fuel lines tomorrow or Friday and make the blue hose transition to get the mess out of the way. That would allow us to charge up the power steering and brakes (once we fix the one brake line), get the AC charged, and make the truck somewhat movable. It MUST have the hydro-booster working which controls both the power brakes and steering. Roy also asked that I inquire at Wenco Driveshafts about the balancing and marks they put on the two driveshafts. Roy assembled them per the marks, but they are not in line with the front u-joint, and that alignment is essential for proper operation. We both might run over there and ask. I will shoot some pix tomorrow of the lines, fittings, etc. I also need to get some seam sealer for the trans tunnel, and do a little more welding or sheet metal along the top near the firewall. It is tough there, as the AC unit and dash components are RIGHT there. At some point I also have to get all the parts we have left over cataloged, photographed, and listed on ebay. I still intend to put the 03 column in, and perhaps the entire dash, maybe the AC alone. The depth of the newer dash is significant, so there might be some clearance problems with the seat, A little measuring will settle the issue. I have also gotten a case HC-12 refrigerant, which is claimed to be better than original R-12. The 2003 Duramax is AWESOME in its cooling capacity, and I'm hoping the dually will do as well, given that it has the newer condenser and pump, and this bitchin' coolant. I also need to address mounting the gauge pack up on the headliner/cockpit area. I may have to take the truck to Miranda and have him remove the headliner to access that area, or perhaps have Rob Anderson counsel me on removing his equipment package from the roof without a trip up to Ventura .
6/11/05 Brett showed today, and worked on getting the egnine started again, which it would now NOT do. We cranked endlessly, tried all sorts of things, and he finally tried ether. It fired, indicating no fuel. I tried priming with a little fuel down the intake, but no go. He took the primer screw out of the filter, filled, still no go. He went back to the manual and found the plunger on top of the fuel filter is for PRIMING the motor when it runs dry. 20 pumps later, instanto start. Whew! Tried putting the power steering hoses on, but the fitting Orme gave me for the lower hose does not work. Also, the return line to the pump need s to be drastically shortened, if I'm going to the correct port. Roy was unable to join today. I've got the battery bracket finished, got the other computer mounted in a wood box, so the left side fender panel is pretty much filled, unless I can fit something under the battery. I still have to find a location for a puke tank for the radiator, mount the right fender battery, and get the air intake into the air box. I'll probably have to have a custom tank made for the radiator overflow. Turns out I have the radiator in upside down as well. I'm pondering whether the overflow and return lines will matter in the inverted position, as well as the cross flow radiator function. The latter should make no difference really, although physics says cold water will fall to the bottom, and now the small puke tube is at the bottom, not the top.
6/12/05 Rob Anderson has answered the question, and the answer is yes, it matters. He notes the small tube is a gas vent to let gasses escapes from the system. Without it, I will lose heating capacity. I looked more closely at the radiator, and it turns out there is a 1/2” threaded hole in the upper left corner of my setup, presumably a drain plug that was originally on the bottom in the stock configuration. I'll take it! I'm off right now to Tampa Hdwe to get a barb fitting for that port. Whew!! I'll convert the nipple on mine (now at the lower left) to a drain line using a ball valve inline and 1/2” tubing, the same size as the hose I'll run from the new upper barb fitting to the puke tank. Well, it gets rougher. The 3/8” pipe thread it APPEARED to be, is in fact about .060” too big, so will not work. This is not plumbing, but automotive, and the sizes may be (and apparently ARE) different. I called Rydell parts, and they show just a plug (#52461346) in that location for $2.43. I can not steal the plug from my Duramax truck, as it will drain the radiator. So I'll need to get one, then take it to some places to see just what the thread actually is, as Chevy does not give a size and thread configuration. The plug I happened to pick up and which seemed to fit may also help, but I want to see if there is any difference in the Chevy part, just to be sure. I hve to go there and prepay this order. Silly. Hmmm, I could pull the DM plug, throw mine in, and see how close it is that way. Might just do that. Meanwhile, I will endeavor t find a mounting location for the puke tank, perhaps rework the air intake box positioning, and see if I can figure a way to use the windshield washer bottle from the 03 setup, perhaps fitting it under the left side battery. I may have to drill the core support to make an opening for the top of the bottle's neck. In the 03, it is sandwiched between the core support and the battery, then flares out to a larger container under the battery. I have no room to do that, but we'll keep trying, perhaps notching the support to make it a similar mounting. If I do that, I'll have to remake the leg I just fabricated to hold the front of the battery tray. I opted to rush over before closing time and pay for the part to be ordered. I also ordered the elusive radiator/trans cooler nut, which was pricey at $40. No doubt I will find it tomorrow. I have slotted the fuse block cover (plastic) to allow it slip over the 12-volt feed from the positive battery cable, and anchored the block down. I'm now moving on to locating the washer bottle to see if I can fit it under the battery. So far, I can't locate it. The puke tank will be another effort. I am considering turning the air box sideways as it sits in the 03, and cutting the inner fender panel to allow it to slip in there. I also got the power steering hose to start, but I am unsure if it is really threading properly, and am afraid to crank down on it. I also need to solve the mystery of the other hose, the low pressure return line. And, I can not find the little nipple which was the prior low pressure line. Yuk!
6/14/05 03 DM The 03 DM truck had a very expensive valve body replacement a few weeks ago, as you may recall. Well, today Jorge called me to say that the truck started shifting oddly, and he immediately pulled over on Mulholland Drive . One of the clip fittings in the trans cooler came loose, and bingo, 8 quarts (2 GALLONS) of trans fluid went bye bye. John and I boogied over with trans fluid, paper towels, and some tools and clips. Jorge had replaced the clip and line onto the cooler. We added fluid until it appeared full, but it still started in 3rd gear (safety mode), and the check engine light remained on. John said HIS stomach hurt from my HORRIBLE luck, and protested, “this can not be bad, it just can't be.” I resigned myself to it, made an appointment for 7 AM tomorrow at Power Service in the City of Industry , and John and I ventured home to work until the truck returned, at which point we would douche it down and prepare it for the drive some 60 miles away at 5:30 AM . Jorge arrived about 6:45 PM saying it now shifted fine. He had the intuition to disconnect the batteries for about 5 minutes once he returned to the jobsite, let it sit for two hours, and when he started it up it shifted fine, although the service light remained. I got in it here, drove it down the street, and no service light! Whew!!!!!!! I am going to put a pressure gauge in the trans cooler line with a warning light and buzzer to alert ANY driver for an instant shutoff if the line fails again.
DUALLY Roy found the missing fitting this morning in a bag beneath the rear of the dually. I also found the DM missing trans cooler (the new one) late tonight in a box in plain view, despite the fact that John and I looked for HOURS for it today. Also in the box were spare fittings for the trans cooler (trans side), and the 4 grab handles I had ordered to update the Dually. I actually have a couple of hand holds, but not as stylish as these. I have revamped the puke tank location to the right front fender, found the also missing 03 windshield washer reservoir (not usable, too deep, unless I can cut and weld the plastic), and did not hear from Marcellini at Rydell regarding the drain plug (for thread verification only) and the now-redundant radiator tank trans cooler line fitting. Roy ran the trans cooler lines to the upper radiator fitting, and to one side of the trans cooler. We lack about 2' of blue hose for the lower radiator outlet to trans cooler line. I spent about two hours using our bad cooler (the repaired, but not repaired) to mock up a new mounting on the Dually. It worked great, and I installed the brand new cooler. Of critical importance was getting the grille to clear, and it appears it does. We will need to make some frame clamps to hold the cooler lines, but otherwise we're good. The power steering lines are puzzling. We have three ports on the pump, three on the hydro booster, and two on the steering box. We have an extra line and no place to put it! I need to check with Tom Lee of Lee Mfg, world-renowned maker of Nascar and circle track power steering units. Roy is also going to do some manual research to see what he can find. Rob Anderson may have the answer on the PVC welding.
6/17/05 We are closer on the dually, as Roy got the brakes lines done today except for the actual connection to the master cylinder. Once complete, along with another power steering line, the dually could conceivably be moved and driven, at least in and out of the garage. We still have to remake the gas tanks, modify the fuel lines (more $ for Orme Bros!!), and establish some kind of shifter for the trans. The puke tank has yet to be final-mounted, and the backordered parts at Rydell are waiting for pickup. I'll get those in the morning. I MIGHT trim the inner fender panel to make more room for the puke tank. Brett will not be returning for several weekends to be of any help, and then only occasionally on weekends. We've made some heartening progress on the dually and trailer this week. Some day soon they will once again be united in happiness motoring down the road.
6/19/05 800-252-5283-Allison-says in Tech Data E-section page 7 they specify the line pressure at 35# in the cooler circuit. I have therefore purchased fittings, a sensor switch, and a buzzer to go off at 15# for both the dually and the 03 Duramax truck. This will give us a fighting chance at shutting the engine down if we lose a line again. I will incorporate an LCD light (very bright, very low amperage requirement). Roy or I will cut it into the dually circuit Tuesday. The 03 truck will require a little more work, as interrupting the hard lines takes some doing, as in removing them, have them cut, compression rings slipped on (to hold a hose), and more $$ at Orme Bros.
6/21/05 Roy and I did some work today (mostly Roy ), working on the brake lines, power steering, and setting the proportioning valve. We have been stressing for almost a week about the mysterious third line, and finally Roy noticed there IS a third line on the rear of the pump. I then started searching for that line, and thinking how I would order one from Chevrolet, and have it modified. I then FOUND the very line I had Orme make several weeks ago!! Gads, no memory at all! So we saw that it was the correct line, and we modified the bends in it to get a better routing and clearance for the intercooler piping. It's in, so all lines are accounted for. At this point the brakes, power steering, and AC lines are complete, and the intercooler piping is also complete. Ditto for the radiator coolant lines, EXCEPT the upper hose to the puke tank. I am ready to fabricate the puke tank mounts, and once in, perhaps make use of the oddball thread size fitting I got from Chevy. This is a drain pedcock, and I MIGHT be able to come up with a line INTO the opening of this little plastic device. Otherwise, I'll have to somehow find threads to match it, modify it, or have something made custom. I got the 1/2” rubber line for the lower outlet and a ball valve with proper barb fitting adapter so I can seal off that lower nipple (and drain the radiator at the turn of a valve). We have not cut the buzzer and light warning system into the trans cooler line as yet, but it is in position and ready to be done. The next challenge will be the fuel tank(s). I have to go out and measure the 03 tank, and see if it would fit. Meanwhile, the fuel lines need to be cut, shoulders installed, and the fuel cooler positioned. But hey, big progress so far this last week. See the accompanying pictures.
7/2/05 Derek has been charged with sorting and ordering the pictures, which means I will have to do all of that, number them, and then have him install them in the website. Roy has completed the brake lines including installing the new proportioning valve, tees, and anchors. John and I remade the windshield washer reservoir using contact cement and cutting the LONG neck down a few inches. I'll work on getting it installed first, as it is below the puke tank, then get on with the puke tank install. This area is turning out quite nicely. I still have yet to find the proper fitting for the top air bleed line in the radiator. I have the insert, I just have to get to someone who has metric fittings and see what it is. I can't get it into the SAE and metric thread sizer on the garage wall as it has some ears, and I don't want to destroy it just yet. I also have to get the proper pressure cap for the puke tank, about a 17# unit or so. I did cut the core support at the top to make room for the neck and lid on the windshield washer reservoir, so that is good to go. As I have the 03 here, I'll go out and take some measurements on the fuel tank and see what gives there.
7/3/05 The tanks measure nearly identical, although the newer tank holds 30 gallons, and mine are 20-gallon units. I have a hunch there is some footwell space I will need to give up in front of the rear seat area in order to use the newer tank. No way to know until I push one up in there and see. It would, of course, be WAY sweet to put one of the new units on EACH side, giving about 600-800 miles of range per fill. For now, I'll look at getting an 03 tank in there. I mounted the windshield washer reservoir, the puke tank, and made and mounted the right side battery. However, the battery is not level, by intent, but the positive side-mount cable falls right next to the AC dryer aluminum tubing. This would be a VERY nasty short resulting in a ruptured freon line. SO it looks like I get to cut it out and do it over. Spent about an hour on the cell with Brett, discussing all sorts of stuff, and he intends coming up for the day on Saturday July 16 th . If Roy and I keep at it, we might have this thing running out the gate by then. I did get the hood on, but the clock spring hinge assists have to go. So I'll either use a prop-rod or attempt to fit some struts in there once we‘re all done. The prop rod approach is not the end of the world, it's just a heavy hood. Still gotta find the upper outlet fitting for the puke tank. Today I'll work on getting the hoses to the puke tank and heater, and remake the battery mounting. I have second thoughts on the not-so-level battery, and unless I went to an Optima (which could be mounted any direction), I'll need to go more or less standard. Roy was right about the Kenny tube, it's just too big on one end, it's HORRIBLE to try to fit over the hose, and won't stay on anyway. Tuesday I will take it back to Kenny to compress on his machine. I spoke with Roy today and outlined our game plan for this week. Roy suggested an approach on the trans cooler line warning light and buzzer: power the light and buzzer from 12-volts at the dash and run just a ground wire from the light and buzzer at the dash to the sensing unit, and from there to ground. Excellent idea. Brett noted I need to use keyed power for that, or it would buzz whenever the engine was off. Correctomundo. I will be working on numbering and ordering the progress pix this week, to allow Derek to update the website and diary. I did not hear back from the fellow who appeared hot to trot on installing a Duramax in a Buick Grand National. Time will tell, but it looks unlikely right now. No problem, I've got the twin-engined Stude pickup, the KiloKube, to entertain me once the dually is completed, and the Condor is finished with Phase One.
7/4/05 Removed the right side battery holder and repositioned and rewelded it with more clearance for the positive terminal at the AC dryer. I also made the battery essentially level. There is still room to run the 4” air intake into the fender well between the battery and the puke tank. I have to do some checking to see if the air sensor needs to remain in its plastic collar or can be put in some other tubing. For now, I will presume I have to cut the collar off the stock air box and incorporate it into the intake ducting. I see no alternative for air filtering other than a K&N inside the compartment or cutting the right fender and making an air box there with a filter. I'll obviously check out the K&N approach first. If I'm going to start the motor that sensor must be in the circuit. I've got to shorten a bolt under the core support as it is just touching the windshield washer reservoir, and I feel it could wear a hole in it over time. I will add a layer of foam under it as well. I will endeavor to determine which plugs go to the puke tank and washer motor (I think I know), and study the hifi loom as well. I talked with Rob Anderson, who will visit later in the week to make sure I reconnect the hifi circuits correctly. I will pull the dash cover off in a few minutes and see what kind of fit I can get with the instrument cluster. I might have to put a hump in the dash cover. Whatever. Keep it moving.
7/5/05 Roy was here today, mostly alone. When we did team up, we found some wiring answers, but only a couple. Firstly, I found the windshield washer wire from the 86, but do not yet have the proper plug for the 03 washer bottle, nor its level sensor plug. We did find both correct plugs in a spare wire loom, and I'm debating on whether to cut those off or go to Chevy and see if a selection of plugs is available. Perhaps Molex or someone makes a catalog of these plugs. We also found the AC compressor plug, and I brought out the 86 compressor and we plugged it in to be sure that was the right one. Yes, it is, and we grafted that onto the 03 plug. So we potentially have the windshield washer bottle and sensor handled, presuming we can locate the sensor wire. Rob Anderson will hopefully yield some answers to the hifi wiring, and perhaps some other wiring as well. Roy is going to the DWP truck service center, where he worked for decades, and will attempt to find a manual for the 86 and see just where the wiring is. We do have the full set of manuals for the 03. So far it looks like we have to trigger the 03 AC compressor with the 86 wiring, as I still have the 86 controls and steering column. Ditto for the washer bottle. However the SENSOR for the bottle level must go to the 03 harness, as the gauge package is 03. We also have deduced (hopefully correctly), that the vacuum lines are AC related, and at least one controls the check valve in the heater (water) line. It was this line which I had incorrectly connected earlier to the puke tank line from the lower radiator hose. On that issue, Kenny remade the end, still too big, and gave me a spare end to test. The smaller end works, and Roy dropped the pipe back to him with markings and instructions. It should take Kenny under 5 minutes to correct it. Roy is going to bring his vacuum pump Thursday and we'll see if we can make the AC doors move, etc. Once we can start the thing and run it, we can find out a few things. For now, I guess we'll just turn the key on (and off), and start checking which wires get voltage, which controls energize which plugs, etc. If I get some time tomorrow, Wednesday, I'll pull the dash cover off and see what I need to do to fit the gauge cluster in there. I believe it is only one plug. On the fuel tank issue, I emailed Travis, from whom I bough the “hulk”, and am awaiting a reply about where the heck my tank is. It was part of the buy package, and he thought he'd put it in the cab, but did not.
7/9/05 Travis has agreed to send me the tank, and I will split the shipping with him. We talked about his 05, and he laments mine is better suited for hop-ups. He's pretty sharp on how to deal with the computer end of these diesels. I did some serious driving, but did find some stainless bolts to use in the puke tank, shouldered, and with a sealing washer. Sunday will be dually wiring, and perhaps a little Condor work if I get stuck. I did drill out the 16mm x 1.5 radiator "bolt" I bought for the dually puke tank line, but I need to buy and braze a 1/2" brass barb fitting to it for a hose connection. As it is stainless, this should prove interesting. I also mounted a junction block and the hifi breaker on the firewall, and got a piggyback bolt for the battery and a pigtail from Rich at Valley Car Stereo. I may need a second pigtail to power up the hifi. Rob Anderson has not shown, and I'll need to double check the power and cable size requirements before jumpering from the junction block to his wiring. There is a large “fuse block” type of connector inside the dash which has a bad connection. Brett says tightening it up does not improve it. I will pull it apart and see if I can observe anything. It might have a bad connection to one of the lugs, have a bent pin, or something. OK, it is definitely something. Sadly, Kenny lost the radiator junction tube he made up and modified. He set it up on a wall, and his daily junkman pickup just took it without asking. This is not a good thing. I'll have to tow it over again, not an easy thing. If I can get everything else done, I could drive it back. That would require the fuel tank to be in, the shifter to work, and a few other little things to be done. A nice goal in any event. Once drivable, I can have Arrow AC replace the AC dryer and charge up the system with my HC-12 coolant.
7/12/05 Left a couple of messages for Travis to see if the tank is on its way. Rob Anderson came down yesterday, just as I was returning from getting another battery cable to power up the hifi breaker. I made up a cable, we installed it (2 of them piggybacked off the positive side post terminal) using the extender bolt kit, and finally discerned that the large fuses, breaker, etc. in the other loom belonged to the trailer wiring setup. That is a MUCH sloppier setup than mil-spec Rob's work. All works, including the ten channels of hifi, lights, turn signal, AND the motor starts!! Hooray again!! The white junction box which Brett had warned can not be tightened together in fact must be making connection. The engine started without the instrument cluster and MAS air sensor in the circuit, on “limp” mode. Roy came today and while I was out working traced many wires in the old harness from the early instrument cluster, labeled them, and cut the old plug off. He also pulled out some wires no longer needed. We are now deciding how to interface the turn signals, dash light dimmer control, and high beam indicator to the new cluster, I suggested putting three new LED's on the soon-to-be new panel surrounding the new cluster. Roy thought that was an easy way to go. We may be able to route the dimmer wire to the cluster through my old light switch rheostat. We also don't know where the fuel level gauge receives its input. At this writing I find no wiring running back to the tanks. Brett is due here Saturday, and may be able to shed some light on the matter before if I can reach him by phone. No word from Kenny on the lost radiator hose coupler. Roy also found the ground at the left side of the radiator (to the core support) was not making a great connection, so corrected that. We also have a ground on the right (passenger) side, and he made that one good as well. He also got the wiring to the headlights, so they are good. We are still looking for a supplier of new generation plugs for the windshield washer and puke tanks. The fuel tank on the 03 has the same dimensions as the 86, however holds 30 gallons versus the 20 gallons for the 86. I suspect the kick downs in the body metal front and back may account for this and may prevent me using the 03 tank altogether. I await it with great anticipation to see just what we'll do. The 86 setup uses and switch between the 2 tanks (40 gallons total), and switches the vents, returns, and feeds, a total of six lines. These lines are too small for the diesel, so using that crossover valve will not be practical. I was unaware the vents were switched, and had no idea I even had return lines. I prefer just having two tanks (the originals), putting a crossover tube, and having 40 gallons. I could always add another tank in the bed if I really need long range, but 600 miles should be plenty. We've learned so much doing this swap. Should someone want it done, we could save HUGE time just going to the easy correct solutions. Oh, never heard again from the guy wanting to do the Duramax/Grand National project. What a shock. Roy is scheduled for this Thursday ( 7/14/05 ), and again for Saturday ( 7/16/05 ) when Brett is here. Meanwhile I hope to be here with Roy Thursday to move forward as possible. Without a tank, it really is impossible to drive the thing, so I'll probably have to hold off towing it back to Kenny until the tanks are in.
7/18/05 I will not join Roy tomorrow as I'm going to El Cajon ( San Diego ) to look at a 58 Impala. John and Randy are supposed to join me in the Duramax for the drive down. I would love to have had the dually to take down there, but we are still a ways down the road from that. I did some wiring over the weekend, extending the 14 wires in the instruments cluster about 18”. I wrapped the loom with plastic (no adhesive) then covered that with black tape. Brett found the right place on the fuse box for the windshield washer reservoir sensor, and put that wire and two wires for the low-pressure trans cooler sensor through the firewall. I bought two plugs at GM for a MERE $50 (!!!!!!). What a gigantic screwing!! We used one for the windshield washer and Roy and I used the other for the puke tank sensor wiring. I did not want to cut up the loom if avoidable. I think that loom will bring several hundred dollars on ebay. It lists for between $700 and $1300 depending on which loom it is. Holy crap!! I have heard nothing from Travis, despite leaving numerous phone and email messages. I think he is blowing me off.
7/21/05 Notwithstanding the 104 degree outside temp, it was a sweet 77 inside the Garage Mahal owing to running the 5-ton AC in there. Roy and I were comfortable, as we should be in the beautiful venue, and as intended. Roy located a few more wires, and I found the emergency brake in the bed of the dually. It turns out that as the e-brake was out of the truck at the time, the new wire loom cut through the firewall was placed right where the front two mounting studs were located. Roy found the location of the upper one up inside the dash, suggested drilling out one of the screws in the firewall plug, and I did both. I had to extend the upper stud on the e-brake using a coupling nut and cutoff 5/16” bolt, and fabricate a new welded-in mount for the bottom stud. All is done. Now I have to drill the floorboard for the cable, mount a modified release lever and rod, and see how it all works. The transmission shifting requires a new 36” cable, some heim joints (5mm and 8 mm), standoffs, some bracketing, and a little creativity. Still no word from Travis. This is getting upsetting. I have sent him an ultimatum to send it or pay for it. So Roy and I will continue again this Tuesday July 25 th , 2005, and work towards completing the wiring, making the mounting tabs for the instrument cluster, ordering the 36” cable, finishing the parking brake, tracing some more wiring and generally attempting to get all functions working. To reiterate, I can't finish the AC nor do the radiator hose until I have the fuel tank done. I CAN, if I want to spend money and trouble towing it all over the place, but why? It won't be driveable anyway until the fuel system is complete.
7/25/05 I finally got around to changing the trans cooler on the 03 Duramax. The problem is, I used the bracket off of it for the dually! After much searching, and to no avail, I just fabricated a new one. All seems good. I still need to install the low pressure warning sensor on this truck as well. Roy is scheduled for tomorrow, and I should be here. I have not done the cluster mounting, but did get the hole drilled in the floorboard for the e-brake cable. I'll need Roy to give me a little slack on it in order to connect it to the holder. Still no response from Travis. Most discouraging.
7/30/05 Well, DID hear from Travis. He is demanding the old pink slip back in order to get my tank. This makes utterly no sense at all. I OWN the whole truck. I was SUPPOSED to have the tank as part of my deal with him. Apparently, he or someone else is trying to salvage , divest, or sell whatever was left of the truck. I really don't care, as I have no need for the title now. I have neglected to send it now three days in a row. I will FEDEX it up Monday to him, and await the tank. However, it does not appear likely the tank will even work. It is the same outside dimensions as the original, but hold 50% more fuel. There are intrusions into the tank space on the 86 units I think are NOT present on the new one. Whatever. In a week or so we'll settle this and get on with modifying the old ones or use the new one. Meanwhile, I solved the radiator hose adapter situation. I called Kenny and asked him to just make me a 5” radius elbow, and we would fill in the gap with another hose. As I was about to walk out the door to go to his shop, I look down and there is the PERFECT hose! I mean to the mm!! Wher eit came from, how it go there at the front of the truck just sitting on a milk crate is a mystery. I went to his shop, got him to make me two simple 4” long couplers, and boom! It's a done thing. So there appears nothing, other than a fuel tank, stopping the truck from being filled with coolant and power steering fluid and driven. If I could rig up a larger fuel tank in the bed, I might just drive it! The dash is still not in, but that wouldn't prevent it from being driven if connected. Oh, the trans shifter cable. THAT is required. We need a 36” long unit with special fittings. I'll get that ordered Monday from Orme Bros or Good Vibrations. The ebrake cable is connected, and I still need to mount a modified release rod and lever. The hood latch cable is connected, and coiled up with its release handle under the left front bumper area. The grille is in, the headlight surrounds are also in, and the lower valance installed. I had to relocate the trans cooler to make it all fit, but that's completed. We are ready to bolt on the bumper. We can NOT find the left turn signal light which WAS attached to the rear of the grille. It HAS to be here somewhere! I have not done the extensive picture sequencing I had noted I would do a while back. But I will, so you can understand this whole thing more easily. Knowing what I know now, I would NOT have done this swap. But, knowing what I do now, I could do this swap way easily for someone else. I've just cost myself a lot of time and money, and gotten yet another truck, not a bad thing. I did off the old gas dually, and that all in all is a fine improvement. Brett called last night and will not be here for at least 7 weeks, as he is on the final approach for his real estate license exam. Roy and I are REAL close, so this is not crushing so far.
8/4/05 Brett returned my further call to inform me that the “white box” which is a fuse box/junction under the left side of the dash, is responsible for the dash not functioning. He thought its mal-connection prevented the engine from working. Not so. So Roy and I will fiddle with that tomorrow, Friday, while we are starting the shifter cable install. The 3/16” diameter of the Heim joints matches well with the 8 mm shifter lever boss, and allows for a sleeve on the 5/16” hole in the shifter arm on the column. Roy filled it with water, we have run it for several minutes, and no leaks of any kind. I need to address the hood springs, or the lack of them. I've got to see if there is a way to mount some struts. This is tough on the passenger side, as the battery is completely tight to the fender well there to clear the AC dryer canister and the fuel filter (remounted on the front of the dryer). We did get the windshield washers to function, after I got a mouthful of whatever sucking on the vacuum lines. The power steering works great, the emergency brake works great, the stereo works awesomely. We still have a vacuum issue to solve, perhaps using the little 6” plastic ball from the ‘86 engine and used originally for that very purpose. The gas tank situation appears now to require using the originals. Not really a huge thing, and I have found amputation points in the new hard lines which will be convenient for conversion to 1/2” flexible blue tubing. Modifying the tanks is just another thing requiring hunting and finding the right people. Jim Deist suggested using Halon. For him that's cheap, for me CO2 is cheaper. Jim is going to Bonneville next week, so I will look for another source to modify the tanks. I have sent Travis a couple of requests to confirm his PO Box # with no answer, so he has not been sent the Hulk title, and I therefore have not been sent the 03 tank.
8/8/05 GETTING THE 03 TANK-WHICH WE DON'T NEED NOW Travis did get me the proper PO Box #, and I sent the title away. He then responded with a nasty email, pissed off that I had put him through a lot of effort, when the tank was supposed to have been picked up. He says he told the guys he needed the title. In fact. He sent ME the title long after I got the hulk. Whatever. I asked him about the electrical gremlins, and he suggested a series of procedures to check it, all excellent. It turns out I won't even be using the tank. I will pay for the shipping, once I find out how much it is. Randy and I brained on the tank situation today. I put the left tank back up in, after pulling the sending units out of both tanks. The short of all this is the following: I will use the supply and return lines and level sensor in the left tank. There is also a vent line, which I believe I will block, but I need to check on that. The combined area of the supply and return lines of 3/8” and 1/4” is within 10% of a single half inch line. Close enough. I will extend the smaller return line to the bottom of the tank, tee them together at the top and bring them into a single half inch barb fitting, and run a single flexible blue hose from there to the hard line at the side of the transmission. More on that connection in a moment. The RIGHT side tank will be only for return fuel, and will be connected with a 1.5” crossover line approximately mid-tank (front to back) to fill the left tank. The sending unit from the left tank will be the operable unit, although I can easily use both sending units and have the right tank sensor as a backup. I'll mount the fuel level gauge(s) on the new dash panel, using one from the old instrument cluster. The right tank will need only its former 3/8” supply line connected to blue hose. That hose will go to the fuel cooler, then from the cooler to the return line mounted next to the supply line on the right side of the transmission.
THE CONNECTIONS AT THE TRANS These two lines at the trans have a connection to a short section of flexible hose, and use a crimped collar. From here they revert to hard lines back to the tank and fuel cooler, where again they go to flexible lines. I intend to cut them off just outside the bead-rolled bump in the tubing (no high speed grinder on this one!!!) at the trans, and just slip blue hose and a clamp over these connections. The hard lines from the right side of the trans go up to the motor, and are VERY tough to get at. So we're just not going to bother with them, as they are fine and do their job perfectly. We're just trying to simplify things down below where we connect to the old tanks. So the only new penetrations to the old tanks will be the crossover tube, long overdue. This will allow for filling both tanks from either side, and allow use of the right tank all the way down to the bare bottom. No more crossover switch. At 40 gallons total capacity, that will give about 600 miles range, pretty darn good. If I'm nutzoid (well, OK…..), I could add another 40 or more in the bed for another 600 miles. No reason to do that now. When all else is done, and I'm aching for some technical thing to do, maybe then. That system would use an electric pump and just pump into the filler neck(s) of the existing tank(s). No complicated switchover valves or anything, just an in-flight refueling if you will. Roy is due tomorrow ( 8/9/05 ) to work on the shifter cable. I need to run to Orme Bros tomorrow to get the proper-sized pins for the 3/16” Heim joints. I'll also go to Sepulveda Muffler and have Kenny cut and flare some 1.5” tubing for the welder to use to cut in the crossovers on the tanks. We're closing in on it!
8/9/05 Travis noted: Unfortunately the only one that will actually allow you to see what you are reading is expensive. That's why I suggested taking it to the local dealer. I explained to my dealer what my project was and they had no problem helping me out for a normal fee. Kragen has one that is under 150.00 that should clear the codes. Pull the white box and check to make sure all wires are in all the way….they tend to fall out when being pulled on repeatedly.....maybe one is slightly out...would be the first time I saw this....if so pull the wire all the way out and pry the barbs back out. This should keep it from happening again. Try a direct line from the battery to a switch and test to see why it's not coming on....then go back and find out what you need to fix for the AC. Roy and I will do this today. 8/11/05 Roy checked with a dealer tech who informed him we need to buy five computers!!!. Roy then asked to be connected to an electrician who noted that there are TWO 12-volt supplies to the cluster. We have the glow plug indicator and the check engine light icon, but nothing else. We spent the time working out the shifter cable. Roy got the bottom bracket fabbed and mounted, and I roughed in the top bracket. The welding was HORRIBLE as it was upside down, and burning me with slag. I couldn't find my good Jackson helmet. It was murder, and I was the victim. The bracket is too flexy, but does function. A more expert welder will be needed to add a gusset to the bracket to make it right. Joe Ziola is ready to go on the fuel tanks, if I can just get them over there. I need to have Kenny make the crossover pipes. Roy and I decided to come out 4.5” from each tank to clear the frame rails (the pipes are below the frame rails, barely), and kick them 45-degrees to the front. I'll then have a U-bend made which passes under the center support bearing area (no vertical driveshaft movement), connected to the tank stubs with 2 short coupling sleeves of rubber. I'll make some bracket off the trans crossmember and hang the U-bend for more security. This approach makes for a more secure system. I'll also fab up a driveshaft safety loop at some point. So our next thing, while the vehicle could actually be driven now if I set the 5-gallon fuel can in the bed, will be to do the fuel lines correctly. Then it can REALLY be driven, and get the AC charged (once we get it to function).
8/14/05 The good news is the cable seems to shift the trans nicely. The bad news is, besides the flexiness, is that the neutral safety switch is no longer operating. Next step is to pull the cable off the trans and see if somehow it now starts. We're hoping it is just a slight misalignment, although I frankly doubt it. I have my brother-in-law coming to work with me on the business starting tomorrow, so I don't know if I will have time to take the tanks over or not before Roy gets here Tuesday. 8/20/05 Roy adjusted the cable, and it works in Park and Neutral now. It does shift, but the upper bracket flexes too much to get all the way down past Drive to 1 and 2. No need anyway. Drive will work just fine to get it up to Sepulveda to have Kenny weld in the gusset on that bracket, and finish up the crossover tube. Did get Allstate Radiators Sam the Man to convert one of the 86 tank sending units to 1/2” copper, so those units are ready to go back in the tanks. Joe at Hollingshead has the tanks and should be working on them Tuesday morning 8323/05. It turns out Sam could have soldered the tubes into the tanks. I might just take them over to Sam to get them done more quickly. The dash cluster functions on almost all functions now. Roy found we needed the grounds attached. With an external ground to the (2) #B11 pin wires, all functions were there except speedo and the engine icon going out. That grounding provided cluster illumination, but it would not go out. Disconnecting the external ground jumper has left us with full function, including voltmeter, and the engine check icon goes out! Yeah!!! So at this point we are essentially drivable, have oil pressure and temp and speedo functions. Oh, the trans was 9 quarts low! Ouch! It shifts, pulls the wheels both directions, and reads about right on the stick now. We do have one problem: the brake master leaks at the firewall junction. As you may recall, we had put a core on there to get the missing spring and plunger. Whatever, we appear to have a figure-8 shaped O-ring leaking. So now I will pull fuel from the left tank, read fuel level from the right tank sending unit, and return fuel to the right tank. The level should be the same in both tanks with a 1.5” crossover tube. Should I ever get the tank from Travis, we might put that pickup and sending unit in the left tank. For now, this should do. Brett says he should be able to finagle some interface with the sending unit to read properly in the 03 cluster. Roy and I will commence cutting the hard lines and installing the new 1/2” blue flex lines on Tuesday. Once we put the tanks back in, we should be able to drive the thing out. I'll need some caps for the tanks until we get the crossover tube installed. And I STIL have to shoot all the pix so this will read and show nicely.
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