THE ORIGINAL SUPER COUPE

I'd really been a GM person for a long time. However, in 1988 I loaned someone some money, and had to take an ‘83 Tbird V-6 Elan as payoff. It was a maintenance nightmare, averaging over $700/month from the start. After a year of grief I finally caved in and bought a NEW ‘89 SC only because I thought it would be cheaper to drive than the $7000 I had spent maintaining a used car. Until then I was really just a car jockey to and from the mechanic.

I got my red Super Coupe in August 89, and loved it. It started every day, hauled butt, looked great, and cost less per month! It was relatively trouble-free, but did blow a head gasket at 90K, almost 5 years later, on warranty. At 106K (just out of warranty) the head gasket gave subtle signs it might be going again,Ford refused to help (except a final offer of $1800 to R/R the head gaskets), so I jerked out the motor, bored it, installed new pistons, bearings, etc., and put it fresh and ready to install on a stand in my garage, complete with supercharger, intercooler, injection, brackets, ignition, and computer.

THE DREAM

I then decided to indulge the dream: a LARGE Windsor based V8.

I found a ‘70 Mustang 351 Windsor Mach 1 290 hp V8 and C-6 trans in a Fairlane pickup in Lancaster belonging to a member in my funnycar race group, and purchased both for $500.

I eventually sold off the C-6, and had a mechanic start on the install in October 94. He pieced together two pans (the double hump design), when I now find I could have used a stock LTD or truck unit. In December 94 I moved the car to Advanced Engineering West (Mark Sanchez) in Ontario , who purported to be a very IN installer, with factory performance connections and projects. He estimated 2-4 weeks (actually about 40 hours) of time to do the install, as I was intending to retain the stock trans, exhaust and rear end. He guesstimated about $2K to do the swap.

WORDS OF WARNING

The following may cause some people to become depressed. Everything is true. The watch phrases would be: Find qualified craftsmen, research their work, and get it in writing BEFORE doing anything.

Of course, since NO ONE had ever done this swap, that was tough advice to heed.

THE NIGHTMARE BEGINS

The engine was built in January 95 at Afford-able Performance in Glendale (Daryl Hale) for $3100. It uses an offset ground 400 truck crank, Chrysler rods, Keith Black 9.4:1 pistons, and supposedly massaged heads. Hale proved to be a MAJOR BS-ing butcher. His motor had to be pulled from the car after only 6K miles and COMPLETELY redone from scratch (bored, crank turned, new pistons, etc.). More on that in a moment.

But back to the time flow: Sanchez soon thereafter (Feb 95) said he was looking to get some ink on the project, and had a trans rebuilder (Stone Pony) interested in donating an AOD trans beef/rebuild for the project publicity in several magazines.

THE TRANS

Sanchez, while intending well, took 12 MONTHS to do the install. The bill, including the trans (but NOT including the motor cost), ran over $9000. The trans was NOT free, but rather cost $1800 (I was caught in the break-up of the Stony Pony team, and had no choice but to pay or lose the trans). It has the lower first and second gear kit as well. It disintegrated after just 600 miles of pokey driving, and I had to spend ANOTHER $450 to get it repaired. It turned out the trans guy had demanded Sanchez install an external cooler, which Sanchez failed to do, and thus I was blamed for overheating the trans and killing it. Shifts are now comfortable and positive.

BACK TO THE INSTALL

Technically, the install looked to be quite easy. Just bypass the computer stuff, use the existing gauges, route the exhaust into the existing system, put late Mustang brackets and serpentine belt on the front, and add a bigger radiator. Motor mounts looked simple enough, and the existing converter and trans mounting, driveshaft, etc. all remained the same.

It turned out the new engine required the subframe to be dropped an inch to clear the hood (I insisted on no scoops), exhaust manifolds ended up being factory Mustang header on the left, truck header on the right (both with incredibly TINY openings). The steering knuckle had been changed to a truck unit (smaller) but still dragged on the headers during right turns, and Sanchez helped a little each de-bugging trip out to Ontario (a nearly 200-mile round trip). I eventually had Huth Muffler in Encino just blow a little off the header flange with a torch and cured 90% of the problem. It still catches under acceleration when turning right.

THE NIGHTMARE CONTINUES

I originally heard about Daryl Hale through a friend, and asked him about cylinder head work on Ford V8 engines. He portrayed himself as an expert in small block Ford racing engines, and touted his cylinder head work as being “80% of the performance of more expensive aluminum heads designs at half the price.” I wasn't concerned so much about the pricing, but rather in getting a fine product. We eventually decided on a 416 cubic inch street motor, and I was adamant that I wanted a low RPM torque motor designed for street use and reliability.

SUBSEQUENT PROBLEMS

The motor exhibited knocking noises immediately upon start-up, ran hot for quite a while, used extraordinary quantities of oil, was sluggish in low-end performance, and exhibited very poor mileage.

Mark Sanchez had called me several times to report anomalies during installation:

The freeze plug at the rear of the right head was leaking

The timing cover seal was install backwards

There was considerable dirt in the motor

The piston slap was audible from the first moment the motor was started up. I returned 5 separate times to AEW after picking up the car trying to locate the source of the noise.

Sanchez and his employee were certain the rocker arms appeared to be the same ones his employee had sold to Hale, which Hale charged me as new.

I took the car to Hale in January 96 and he dismissed any notion of piston slap, and assured me the rocker arms were new.

MOTOR REPAIRED BY DON BARRINGTON ENGINES

In April of 96 I was intending only to change the cam, but when we discovered the rear main leaking, I just yanked the egnine out. I photographed the disassembled 416 Ford motor at Barrington Engines in North Hills (SF Valley). Barrington has 35 years experience doing service work for 7 dealerships in the Valley, as well as racing engine experience. He has successfully built racing engines for me and others in my race group. I tragically met him shortly after I had contracted with Hale for this Ford motor.

I asked Barrington to look for reasons for the following performance/operational problems:

A-Overheating

B-Knocking in engine

C-Excessive oil consumption

D-Poor mileage

BARRINGTON 'S IMMEDIATE COMMENTS UPON DISASSEMBLY

1-#4 cylinder was over-honed approximately .005-.008.

2-#8 cylinder was over-honed approximately .003 at the bottom.

3-Valve guides were defective

4-Intake valves were PILED with sludge

5-Motor was dirty

6-Rod bearings were worn to the copper backing

7-Right rear head freeze plug was a defective unit which was installed too deep and leaked.

8-Crankshaft had two journals with gouges in them from faulty assembly-hitting rod bolts

9-Crank showed dirt swipe from oil hole due to dirty assembly

10-Valve seals were defective, causing additional excessive oil consumption.

HERE'S THE “HAVE IT IN WRITING” PART

Hale had ignored my request for a short duration, low-end torquer cam and instead put in an Elgin 234/244 cam (zilch below 2500 RPM). Sanchez put on a Holley 750 CFM carb (more zilch at low end). I had delivered the motor with an Offenhauser dual-plane manifold (designed for low end torque), but Sanchez said it had a few pin-holes, and recommended a new Edelbrock Performer (lowest profile that would fit under the hood) rather than just repairing the Offy (for yet more low end loss).

The carb, manifold, and cam combined to give about 9-10 mpg street OR highway and disappointing off-idle response.

THE INITIAL DRIVING EXPERIENCE

The car was finally running in early December 95. It had a knocking sound (which turned out to be loose pistons). In February 96, I dyno-ed it at Bob Jennings in the Valley, and we got all of 190 hp at the rear wheels. We then switched to a 600 CFM Holley and picked up 50 hp at the rear wheels!! It was putting out about 320 hp at the flywheel, and pinged a lot. Also, the 600 Holley had no vacuum port for the breather, so I was struggling with oil saturating the breathre cap, OR having a good idle. I couldn't find a good tap point, and eneded mistakenly boring through the exhaust runner and having to plug the inner and outer runners.

During the initial driving in the Spring of 95, I changed the rear end gears from 3.27 to 3.73. This helped the low end a bit (hardly enough to justify the $800 cost), but did nothing to the dyno readings. However, there is now another snag. Since the rear end change there is a driveline vibration above 70 mph, very suspiciously similar to bad driveshaft U-joints. This requires cutting or dropping the exhaust system. As of 1/25/97, I suspect it may NOT be a driveshaft or U-joint problem at all, but rather something hitting the hood, steering knucle, or an exhaust contact point against the body or frame. On 1/29/97 I checked it on Robichau's lift, and both front motor mounts have incredibly lost BOTH bolts into the block on the passenger side, and one on the driver's side, so the engine is really just sitting on the mounts. The driver's side mount has a small crack in its rubber visible when the engine is torqued. There is evidence the radiator cap is touching the hood, as is the air cleaner when the engine rotates up on the left side. Kevin Robichau (remember he's one of the GOOD guys) replaced the missing ARP bolts with standard bolts but with loctite added, at no cost. This dramatically reduced vibration, and softened the 2-3 shift. I tried popping the hood release at 75 MPH, and letting it lift onto the the safety catch doesn't change the vibration.

I finally got a real good look at the collector and flange on the left side headers. All that needs changing is moving the flange down 4 inches by lengthening the collector. Geez!! The guy who mated this up was reputed to be one extremely special guy. NOT! I'll change that next week, and if that still doesn't cure the vibration, I'll balance the driveshaft while the bigger exhaust is being installed. And, since the car was showroom new, there has been an annoying exhaust system noise at the left rear. It turns out Ford service said the sheet metal holding the exhaust bracket on the left side behind the door area was cracked and was impossible to weld or repair (“behind the rocker panel, not under warranty, etc.”).

I can LOOK right at it from below, and I can fix it in one minute by tacking two points with a wire welder. I'm just short a car lift. GEEZ AGAIN!!! Back to the time line: Of course, the speedo was now off. Ford said the tailshaft had to be changed ($350+). I couldn't believe that such a stupid system was required to adjust speedo calibration. After much searching and phoning, I eventually went to North Hollywood Speedo (GOOD GUYS) and for $62 they changed the GEAR and made the speedo dead accurate. We still haven't figured out how to make the Cruise Control function with the carburetor. Suggestions are most welcome.

WHAT BRAKES??

I noticed from the moment I got the car back that I couldn't get the ABS braking to work and had no power assist (no sudden stops, thank you). After 3 months of AGONIZING RESEARCH, a new master cylinder, changing looms and wheel sensors with another SC, swapping ABS computers with another car, and finally replacing the nitrogen cylinder booster, I got my ABS function and power brakes back. This detective work (with the aid of a Ford tech and an oscilloscope) was done at Robichau Automotive in Canoga park by Kevin Robichau, and ran about $1600. Kevin is on the good guy list along with Barrington .

It turns out Sanchez had CUT several computer sensor wires against my direct order not to do so because he “wanted to clean up the wire looms.”

POWER STEERING/ALIGNMENT

The power steering also now pumped the steering wheel when turning right. After three power steering pump changes, we've determined the rack is somehow malfunctioning, and that will run about $450 to purchase and install.

The car also strangely wouldn't align properly, and continued to pull left regardless of what adjustments were made. I finally replaced all four tires with new Michelin MXV-4's, and cured the problem. They give an awesome ride, quiet, and smooth.

THE COOLING

And the cooling-OH YES. I asked for an aluminum or 4-core radiator, but Mark put in a Mustang 3-core unit instead. Sanchez had put on a stainless steel flex fan (no room for a clutch fan setup with only about 3.5 inches), and the car ran quite hot (no fan shroud). With the AC on, it was useless at low speeds when the temp was over 85 degrees (a nearly constant condition in the San Fernando Valley ).

I had personally fabricated a wire and fiberglass fan shroud for about $50. During one of MANY trips back to Ontario in November 95 (remember, a 200-mile round trip each time), I brought the shroud for Sanchez to install. He charged me $500 (!!!) to install it and demanded cash when I finally picked up the car for the last time. This was particularly galling as I could have had a custom aluminum show piece shroud made for half that.

After a year of struggling with additional dual 10” pusher fans in front of the radiator, I switched to a Ron Davis aluminum 2-core Mustang replacement unit, and it runs dramatically cooler. So much so in fact that I ran it without a fan at all (just the electrics) for about 3 weeks while I was replacing the now cracked original flex fan (it was tough finding a proper 17” CCW fan, finally gotten at PAW). I could even run with no fans at all on the freeway.

OTHER ANNOYANCES

Sanchez had adamantly refused to use an aluminum unit against my original requests, as he said his experiences with Mustangs with large motors proved they didn't help. He was HUGELY wrong.

And the gas gauge strangely now didn't work. He charged another $200 to replace the sending unit in the tank. It now has about 20 miles grace on the warning light.

When the motor finally came out of the car in the Spring of 96 (after only 4 months driving and 6K miles), I changed the cam to a 203 degree Isky, repaired the Offy manifold, and gained about 3 mpg in the city and about 7-8 on the highway, and a little vacuum at idle. The repairs took 5 months and ran $3500.

THE BOTTOM LINE

So after two years and nearly $20K, what do I have? Well, firstly, an empty wallet! Beyond that, the car is undetectable from the exterior as anything but stock. It is perkier at low end now. It is impossible to hold the rear wheels from spinning with the brakes when torquing the throttle.The exhaust, while certainly choking the motor, is quiet, with only the cam lope and apparently a center muffler which appears to be dying to indicate anything new. It kicks ass, and is likely a high 13's @ 100 mph machine in the 1/4 mile.The handling of the car is essentially unchanged. It rides a little lower in front due to the 200-pound increase with the V8, steel heads, larger cooling, etc.

Am I happy now? Yes.

What would I do differently? I'd seriously consider using a small-block aluminum Chevy and 700-R4, mainly because there is SO much equipment available, nearly all problems have been deeply researched and cured, and there is such a wealth of experience available. Size-wise, I don't think there would be any difference squeezing it in the narrow (30”) engine compartment. And I'd seriously consider a supercharger for REALLY frightening low-end. In the extreme, putting in some 4.88's and a Gear Vendors 22% overdrive would make it astonishing on the street while retaining highway mileage. It's a tight squeeze, and I doubt they have an AOD kit. For now, the car is quiet, undetectable, eminently drivable, a killer sleeper, and thankfully registered in rural Oregon to avoid smog hassles.

I'd also consider using computer controlled injection for a potentially much snappier mid-range and better economy. Come to think of it, 12/17 is killer mileage, considering originally it was 14/22, with half the motor, and cruiser gears. I will replace the 2 into 1 into 2 stock muffler setup with a 2.5” stainless system with DynoMax mufflers, but I want to be very careful to keep the noise level low. After all, what I was after was serious tickle factor--just a touch on the pedal to snap the car, and not a pro-street car with a lot of noise and vibration. My funnycar fulfills all that need. And on the whole, I'd say that the design goal was successfully met, but at an astronomical cost in dollars and time.

Would I do it again if this is what was required?...........NO. But, if I knew in advance it could be accomplished in 3 months for under $10K?.....YES.

Meanwhile, I have a 100% fresh, reliable 3.8 L supercharged V-6 on a stand in my garage waiting for a SMART someone for $2500.

Calls, comments, letters, and suggestions are most welcome.

3/14/97 WAGNER'S 420” SC UPDATE

Since the last writing I've changed the exhaust, fixed the rack, and had some funny stuff go on at Ford service. The rack was rebuilt ($457) and the light steering and pumping are completely solved. The exhaust has been changed to 2-1/2” aluminized stainless with 2 Hooker mufflers ($500). In order to get past the gas tank, the system was Y'd into a 3” pipe, then opened back to two pipes to the mufflers. The throaty sound is nice, but the drone from 1-2,000 RPM is annoying, and I'm having Huth Muffler (more good guys) put two 14” resonators (more $) in next week to hopefully cure that. Above 2000 RPM, the system is nearly silent from inside the car.

I've ordered some 1-5/8” HPC-coated Flow Tech headers (unequal length) from Jeg's for $290, and I'll install them at the same time as the resonators. The driveline vibration may NOT be the driveshaft after all. Kevin Robichau noticed during the rack rebuild that the oil pan is HITTING on the crossmember (more nice work by Mark Sanchez). Sanchez didn't make the pan, but did install the engine. It appears the pan is leaking at the point of contact. SO, I get to take the motor out for yet another time. In order to raise the motor a 1/4”, I'll have to revamp the air cleaner/intake. I've wanted all along to use the original mass air box and filter and build a bonnet for the Holley 600 carb, both for cool air and aesthetic reasons. I've checked with Holley, Hogan's, and AirFlow Research, and none could give me an answer on the CFM's for the 4” duct and 5x2 bonnet. Bruce at The Carubretor Shop felt it would be plenty. So I'm on the road to fabricate that system. Had I been willing to modify the hood, a lot of this would have been obviated. Back to jerking the motor again. I'll use this “opportunity” to have Barrington Engines pull the engine apart to discover the rattle of unknown origins (likely a lifter or piston). And while I'm at it, I'll do some further engine compartment sanitizing. I have a plan to detail the engine area using trim panels to cover the ugly stuff (wiring, fittings, hoses). It's also getting warm in LA, so I might have to fabricate a shroud for the aluminum radiator. I haven't had a 100-degree air-conditioning day to put the radiator to the final test, but logic dictates a shroud will be needed. The car wouldn't start (battery fine, no click). I towed it to a starter place, thinking that might be the problem. Martk at AIS starters checked and felt the solenoid was bad. I put a new one in ($15), and still no click. Co-incidentally, I was scheduled for the Ford ignition switch recall, and so took it to Galpin. I mentioned to my service rep about the starter malfunction, and showed him how I just jump the solenoid. I said if the ignition switch didn't cure it, it was most likely the neutral switch. He asked if a less than $100 repair would be OK if the neutral switch needed replacing. I said fine. He paged me later to say that their diagnostic check showed it was indeed the switch, and that it would be $240 to replace!! I passed. They still charged me $68.50 for the diagnostic. He quoted me $130 install labor and $50 for the switch. I walked over to the parts counter and got a price of $14!!! Interestingly, the car had a “done” note on the dash when I picked it up, but they had no switch in stock. I am just insulted to the max that Ford can do this to people! What a screwing!!

On a different note, the suspension seems to be acting weird. The other day it was flashing the green stiff ride light 3 times, then off for a while, then repeat. The ride seemed undamped during this time. It stopped this for now. Any thoughts? Is this the SC's way of saying it wants Tokico's now?

3/26/97-WAGNER UPDATE

Talked to both Tokico rep Kirk Rooney (310-534-4934) and Progress Auto, which makes springs and distrubutes Tokico. Had long conversation with very helpful Jeff Cheechov (714-257-0644). Got discount on 4 Tokico replacements. Installing tomorrow at Robichau. The green light continues to flash. On the exhaust system, ordered UNequal length headers from Jeg's, but got shipped EQUAL length HPC-coated Dynomax units. Very pretty but they don't fit inside the fender wells. Returned them and ordered uncoated Headman units. I'll coat them after they're installed and modified to clear steering knuckle. The Hooker mufflers just drone at 1500 RPM, even with additional resonators installed up front. So I'll off those to a friend, and find something quieter. Update on starting problem. It's started EVERY time since I took it back from Galpin Ford. I suspect it was just a dirty connection. I have the neutral switch just in case. I'm going to get the car detailed (interior shampoo, etc.), then decide on what upholstery pieces to replace. Finally, I still get compliments on the car, the latest from a 78-year old lady! Not bad for original red paint.

4/1/97-The Headman headers don't fit either. So Jeg's gets to take back another set. I called Sanchez, and found that the left side header is from a 302 F-150 truck application, the right from late Mustang 302. I've checked with Mike Hamm in Anaheim , who quoted about $800 to build a custom header, good for about 35 HP in his estimation. Since I want LOW end, I asked if he could calculate the tube length for low end performance, that is below 2500 RPM. It appears a more than 5 FOOT long equal length header is needed. This will take some SERIOUS fitting.The resonators were added ($60), but were no help at all. I'm going to off the Hooker mufflers to an interested buddy, and try some Dynomax turbos next. Huth Muffler will trial fit them at no charge if they fail the resonance test (are they GOOD guys or what?). Regarding the oil leak, Sanchez suggests dropping the crossmember rather than pulling the motor. We're scheduling that for 4/8. I can live with a ticking lifter for the price difference.

And happily, the Tokico shocks made a “shocking” difference. Actually, it's just back to the new car ride, which is great.

4/28/97

Pulled the sub-frame out and dropped the pan at Robichau last week. The pan was rubbing on the right side, and had 7 pin-hole leaks, which eventually required welding, brazing, and JB weld to stop. Interestingly, the “lifter” noise has now stopped! Kevin ground down the crossmember and added a washer to the right side engine mount at the block to get a little more clearance. Could it have been the pan hitting, or a rod clicking against it? I'm changing the mufflers later this week as I just can't take the 1500 RPM drone, and fixing a header gasket leak (from the last time trying to fit new headers). About 90% of the vibration above 70 MPH is gone, but a very slight bit remains under load. Perhaps it is U-joints, or just natural drive train loading. I'll do the driveshaft balance and u-joints at Wenco later this week and see. I drove about 260 miles one day right after the pan repair, and the car is a pleasure. When I get the bucks I'll go for a show car finish and CLEAN underhood experience. For now, it's just business.

5/13/97

Replaced the driveshaft with a one piece 3” unit from Wenco. In by 11AM, out by 4PM (GOOD guys!). Cost: $180. Slight reduction in 70+ vibration. A little still there. The “lifter” noise has returned. Might be pinging, although I thought we'd eliminiated that possiblility. Strange that it should go away and come back. The front rotors are wobbling, and BrakeMasters says it may NOT be thin rotors, but a bushing, dragging pads, etc. Gonna find out Thursday. Replaced the Hooker mufflers with DynoMax super turbos, a slight bit quieter, but still drones at 1500 RPM. The hot ticket is said to be the 3-chamber system from Dynomax, ordered through Super Shops. For $140/pair, I guess I have no choice. Love the sound, HATE the drone! With the hot weather, I'm still getting by without a shroud. However, I can put TWO 14” PermaCool electrics with auto sensor on the back of the aluminum radiator and miss the waterpump (3.25” clearance) altogether. Why didn't I see that possibility before (I was stuck on a single 17” which wouldn't fit)? I'm considering relocating the trans cooler AWAY from in front of the AC cooler, as radiators are stacked 3 deep on the left side. AND, an engine oil cooler might just be smart, too. One project at a time (just for a change). Overall, the car rides GREAT. I'd love to add a blower down the line, just for shocking car show appeal underhood, AND scary low end torque. As before, it's just business for now.