1/16/11
I had bought the Impala in 2005 for my mom, In a strange twist of dates, today is my departed dad’s birthday. He would have been 97, but made it to 78. Amazing that it is 18 years since he died, and over 5 since mom passed away.
I did sell the Buick, so a little heat is off. I still intend to offer the Impala fro sale, but the onus is off for the moment.
John and I did some details (it’s ALL details),
We corrected the carburetor linkage. Randy helped with prompting us to revisit the lubrication and sanding of the main sliding rod on the progressive linkage. I chamfered the fitting which slides against a spring, and then John and I made a fitting for the firewall arm (off the pedal), to allow for using the original stock rod. I will return Carlos his $45 linkage setup in the next few days.
I relocated the battery to the trunk, in a battery box, ran some #2 wire from the left rear of the trunk to the right front area of the core support. I will junction the old alternator output wire there, and run another #2 down to the starter. The car electrical apparently ALL comes off a single #10 wire on the starter. We’ll go that way.
We have the AC pump and alternator mounted, and the pulley line up fairly well. I am still waiting on the correct power steering pump from ShowCars. We did get the plug wires, and installed them.
So tomorrow will see some kind of junction and the starter wires connected.
We found the water temp wire, and connected that to the sender. We now have to discern which wires are for oil pressure and coil 12-volt.
I suppose I will need a vacuum canister of some kind, and I have a couple here.
Kelly insists he has an interested party waiting for the Impala to run.
I have to order the glove box interior from ShowCars.

1/18/11
I ordered a dipstick, but forgot the glove box. I’ll email Bruce right now and se if I can get in on the same shipment.
JJ and I struggled all day with the power steering pump system. We were way off, and I was just about to return the pump and bracketing and use the small GM unit and make my own mountings.
JJ and I noticed the pump looked skewed a bit. I bent the outer leaf of the lower bracket in about 1/8”, and that corrected it.
I then tried turning the pulley around backwards and BINGO we have alignment!! How about that! So it looks good there, other than connecting the hoses back up and bolting it back in. We have to put the car on the lift and use a wiggly and extension to get to the rear lower mounting bolt. Just silly.
I got the Airmotive pressure regulator, and after some study I understand how to mount and plumb it. It does not use a return line to the tank.
I will run over tomorrow morning to All Valley Hose and get the 3/8” NPT fittings needed, plus a few other things.
So at this juncture we have about solved the alternator, power steering, and AC mountings and alignment. The tripower air cleaner fits (turned backwards), and we have completed the battery relocation wiring. That involved making a junction block up front, and making up the jumpers, run to the starter, and completing the alternator charging wire loom. All is connected. We just have to figure out how the two remaining wires go on the starter. One is obviously trigger for the solenoid. The other is undetermined at this point.
John suggested pulling out the unneeded fuel return line. We’ll probably do that.
So after many difficult days struggling with little details we have pushed the operation forward. The plug wires are on, the coil mounted (well, it needs a second bracket, but is up on the firewall and connected), the starter is wired (save two connections), and we’re about to connect the fuel system.
I’d say that we will attempt to start the motor in the next two days.
Oh, I will need to get the exhaust corrected. I cut the two head pipes off today, as they need relocating to match the new engine location. It will be a little noisy, but should be OK. I MIGHT just have it towed up to Kenny once we’re ready.

1/22/11
I got the actuator wire on the starter. This was quite an endeavor, as it is up on the inside (block side) of the starter, and is a tiny 5/16 nut. Having the lift was critical for this to be done.
I got a revised belt for the power steering. The one I first got was a 17 x 360 (mm) belt. It would not go around the pulleys in the slack position. I went and got a 15 x 370, which was TOO long. Turns out being narrower it sat down in the pulleys, and left too much slack. I went back and found a 15 x 360 and that did the trick.
That adjusted and is tight.
The alternator was out of alignment, so I put three washers under the front side of the upper mount bolt, and that corrected it.
The AC belt is aligned and tight.
I need to determine the coil hot (I think I know which it is), put in an oil pressure sender, and hook the appropriate wire to that sender.
I got the correct line connected to the fuel pressure regulator (also a stupid fight), and removed the return line from the tank. I will get a cap for that 1/2:” or so barb fitting on the tank, and I’ll remove the return line altogether. I may wait until I get it running to do that. One never knows.
The headlights work (high and low beams).
I determined the distributor is not a points-style, so no ballast resistor to the coil is needed. We’re closing in on that wiring.

1/28/11
I wired up the power to the coil, grounded it, hooked the distributor to the coil, and we have NO spark. Turns out I was NOT supposed to ground the coil. I found some power which stays on during cranking (but drops to 6 volts, no good), so still no spark.
I also found that the Airmotive pressure regulator DOES need a bypass (return line), and that the Summit tech completely lead me astray on that one. We pulled the return line out of the car, so now must put one back in (more money).
I reconfigured the in and out, put a different gauge on it, adjusted it to about 4 PSI, and the 3/8” return line will bypass enough fuel to allow for low pressure to the carbs. Now we gotta get spark, as it appears to be getting fuel (the accelerator pump on the center carb does squirt).
The leaking fuel filter is now OK. It obviously didn’t like 50 PSI!
JJ and I will resume on Monday, and we’re looking to get this thing to fire. I put a hose across the trans cooler lines (so that does not put all the fluid on the floor).
I would like to see this run before I put the radiator and fan back in.

2/2/11
We did some more cranking of the motor, no start.
The trans cooler hose did leak a bit, so JJ put some clamps on it for now.
I called Craig at CRC and he suggested the battery cables might be under size, causing a starting drop while the starter is sucking amps.
I will hook another battery to the oil, and see how the voltage reads during cranking. If it still drops, then something else is goofy. If it stays, then I have some doubling up of battery cabling to do.
JJ and I worked out a bracketing system to handle the throttle pressure line. I am indeed turning it backwards, and I will run it off the accelerator crank on the firewall, using the cable as the cotter key for that throttle rod. This insures I get the EXACT same travel as the center carb. The bracket is quite a bit of engineering, needing to be able to be removed, etc. I’m proud of this little piece.
John knocked over a roll of TorchRoll against the side of the car, but fortunately it was the smooth kind of rubber material, and wiped right off.
I had enough 3/8” blue hose to run the return line to the tank, and that is done.
JJ and I will work the spark situation tomorrow, install the painted and finished TV cable, and look for a particular kind of fitting to terminate the cable.
I’ll call Orme and see what he thinks.
Regarding the goofy backfiring, etc., it is possible I have the plug wires not correct. So some due diligence will be preformed tomorrow, and if nothing is found, perhaps Randy will solve the matter on Friday.

2/5/11
Orme had the fitting, gave it to me for free, and JJ and I snaked the cable into the throttle arm. Randy came by and figured it out in about 15 seconds. I had wired the cap backwards, for Chrysler rotation. Once rewired it fired RIGHT up.
Randy guided me to use the unused green wire hanging down next to the starter for the coil (it was the correct one). About a half hour of unwrapping the loom and remaking the end to the coil got that done. I will use the line I ran for the coil to power an electric choke, as my right exhaust manifold does not have the bung and tube to heat the choke. So all should be good come Monday when I pick up the choke adapter. I’ll tow the car to Kenny at Sepulveda Muffler for the exhaust connections if he is ready for it.
We got the car to fire on the lean cables from the rear battery, so apparently they are OK.
So much has been accomplished.
I had the radiator pressure checked, and it is over at Richard Baida’s for an attempt at sandblasting the tanks to receive paint nicely. Baida did the shroud as best his machine can. JJ and I will paint those Monday, and perhaps get them in the car.

2/7/11
The radiator and shroud came quite clean. John sanded off the remainder, and sanded down some goober soldering. Oddly, Sam at Allstate replaced the overflow tube, but a hole appeared in it. Perhaps Baida found a weak solder joint or a weak spot in the pipe.
No matter, the shroud and radiator are painted and look great. They were just WAY slow drying, notwithstanding be placed in the warm sun WITH the HUGE fan blowing on them.
We’ll install them tomorrow.
JJ and I will run over to Burbank in the morning and pick up the electric choke, and see if I can get return credit on the brass throttle rod I got from Carlos. I’m thinking we’ll have it running mid-day, and might get it over to the muffler shop tomorrow.

2/23/11
JJ and I got the studs, hoses, throttle lever corrected (but now we’re not getting full throttle), and air cleaner installed. I am waiting for a tow truck to take it to Kenny to connect the head pipes.
So we should have a running car by tomorrow morning.
Then it’s off to AirMec to complete the AC.
We removed the fender covers and masking tape and adhesive residue with Acryli-Klean, and we’ll wash it all up tomorrow.

2/24/11
Kenny completed it last night. JJ and I spent the day reworking (about 6 times) the throttle and TP pressure cable. I modified the throttle arm to fit over its pivot on the firewall, changed its angle, and we drilled several lower holes for optional TP connections, and a new higher throttle hole.

We also shortened the throttle rod dramatically, altered the TP stand, and ultimately went to a shorter point on the throttle arm for the TP cable, and shortened it up as well. We are now getting full throttle (or nearly so), and the trans shifts borderline OK. I’d like to see it a little higher on full throttle, but it does kick down.
We do need a vacuum canister, as the power brakes vanish after full throttle for about 5 seconds (NOT good).
We otherwise seem to have cured most everything. We’ll wash it Saturday (at least I will), and I’ll call Morgan tomorrow for an appointment on the AC.

2/25/11
Randy did a little snooping today on the choke, and we adjusted it to open fully. It turns out the 12-volt line he had said was good for the choke has no power. It DOES show 12 volts, but when connected drops to about 5 volts. I ran a jumper from the buss at the right front to the choke, and it opened within three minutes.
So I must find a higher output line. I think I have one hanging from the ignition switch already.

A couple of people have looked at the engine compartment and had rave reviews. I will do a little detailing, paint a few areas here and there, and it should really look cool.

3/1/11
JJ and Kelly and I did some more detailing of paint etc. under the hood.

This is of course an ENDLESS pursuit, ending only in perfection.
We’ve got it quite a bit cleaner now, with JJ and Kelly detailing (removing and painting) the hood latch parts and some other items. I intend to go by Modern Paint in the morning (on the way to AirMec) and get a paint match on the (Arctic?) white, get a quart made (probably a hundred bucks), and have some material to clean up stuff that just is WAY too tough to remove to paint.
John did some detailing of the grooved and painted front fender mouldings, cleaning out some wax in the grooves. Every little thing adds up to more pop when one views the car.
I did upgrade the choke electrical circuit with a relay and heavy wire, and that works nicely now.
I need a fresh radiator cap.
I have some small items to order from ShowCars: one of the hood rubber bumpers, and a door rubber bumper.
I will wait to install the glove box until after Morgan is done with the AC system.

3/2/11
Drove it over to Morgan this morning.
It drives VERY nicely.
Other than the elusive little oil on the right header, and a slight thunking under the dash, the car was flawless.

3/3/11
Randy and I went by to see if it was done.
ZERO.
This is disappointing, and seems to be the story of my car life. I have ore confidence in Morgan than Joe.
But whatever ever happened to doing work when you are told to bring it in?

Kelly has organized the garage to a point where I can see several items to return to ShowCars or sell off.

3/9/11
So almost a week later, and Kelly and JJ and I have been working away on the little details, mostly cosmetic stuff.
Morgan had left one hose loose, scratched the front fender and the compressor, but otherwise did a fine job.
We have had to remake the glove box insert (new) to fit what is really behind there now: the Vintage AC head.
We solved the hose mounting, and will be ready to insert the glove box in the morning if it’s not already in.
JJ and Kelly detailed the trunk, having found that the metal on the underside of the mat was rusted. So much wire brushing, wheeling, etc., and that got restored, as did the mat itself. It looks GREAT!

So the things we can fix and improve are getting attention. NEXT week, I will take it to CRC Trans and have Craig do some tune ups on the 700-R4.
The clips for the rocker trim have been ordered 2-day air from Auto Classics, so if we are lucky and get our shipping money’s worth, we’ll have clips by Friday afternoon.
If I can get Nick to jump on them, I can go to Bob’s Friday with no gappage on the rockers.
The engine compartment is quite nice now, the trunk is killer, and Candy is coming in the morning to shampoo the seats.

3/10/11
In the normal disaster setback mode, Candy ripped the driver’s seat while cleaning it. This is about an $800 repair. NOT GOOD.

Nick does not want the car until Tuesday of next week for the rocker trim re-mounting He, in fact, wants Terry to do it, as Nicks proclaims to have no patience for it. So the expedited shipping on the clips was a $25 waste.
Kelly and I completed the glove box mods, got it screwed in, several-times trimmed, and the door on. The cap and screw for the lock have disappeared, after I SO carefully kept placing it on the passenger floor so as NOT to lose it.
The glove box door is closed, but this must be addressed. The light is not connected, either, and is not in place now. There was ONE wire under the dash with voltage, so I might try getting at that and powering up the switch.
John has continued to clean here and there, and has brought the finish of trim, etc. to its highest level possible. We repainted the top of the core support,

and will put some more coats on the air cleaner can tomorrow. The trunk looks great.
The engine looks great.

We are going to Bob’s tomorrow night in it, and I’ll be curious to see the response.

3/12/11
The car appeared beautifully at Bob’s. I did not bring ANY sales stuff, lights, placard, NOTHING. But the car made it there and back with a little miss at low end and idle. SOMETIMES. We pulled the top of the center carb off, found nothing.
Next we’ll pull the spark plugs and see if perhaps one is fouled.
The fuel pressure had dropped to nothing on the gauge, so I twice adjusted that to around 5 PSI.
The distributor appears fine, and the bobble clears right up with a little throttle.
We also adjusted the idle air bleeds.
So a little mystery. It feels the same as the Tbird low end bobble.
I’m also waiting on some word on the upholstery material. I can get the insert pattern, although different colors, for about half the cost of new covers.
I got the bag of rocker clips, and will venture over to Nick’s on Tuesday.

3/16/11
Nick called and asked me to pick up the car. He said Terry did only the clips, and no paint.
The car still has the odd low end burble. I’m thinking this is an air leak. It appears it smoothes out for 5 seconds when I open the end carbs.
This is boggling.
It sure feels like it drops a cylinder.
I’ll pull the plugs again and check some readings. It also sounds like a loose plug or some goofy noise when running rough.
No word from Auto Classics on matching the upholstery. I need Miranda to see the car and tell me how much to switch out the fabric areas.

3/21/11
Per Jon Beck’s thought I pulled the top off the front carb. No junk, nothing in the seats, float swings freely. The can ran fine all the way over to Bob’s on Friday, and started a bit of the stumble on the way back.
John Beck was thinking something was causing a fuel leak in the front carb.
The fuel pressure seems to move around, varying between 3 and 6 pounds. That’s odd for an electric fuel pump.
I got the glove box lock retainer today, JJ popped that in, so one more little thing is done. He still has to glue one inner felt strip back in place on the glove box liner.
JJ also polished up the rocker trim, and Kelly polished the hubcaps. We will remove the rims tomorrow and paint the outsides.
We made some display carb covers from spray can tops to allow the fans to see the motor.
Miranda is coming in the morning to look at the tear in the upholstery.
I touched up some small areas on the underside of the car, and tightened up pan bolts on the engine and trans and the bolts on the rocker covers.
I intend to return the unused/incorrect parts tomorrow to ShowCars.
I am also going to endeavor to do some very fine flat black paint touch up on the trim and hubcaps.
As noted earlier, this pursuit of perfection is endless.

3/23/11
Kelly has spent literally TWO days doing TWO hubcaps. They look great, but this seems ridiculously long for this work. He is a master of patient detail, I’ll say that.
John did some additional detailing on the interior. We also bought some new epoxy material to glue up the little interior glove box liner strip.
I have renewed the batteries in ALL the display lights, so this Friday (if no rain), should provide a nicer view for the fans.
Miranda came by, but no word from him on locating any material. I need to search some more to see if I can find any matching pattern. I also see that the seat portion is starting to tear near an edge.
I hope tomorrow to get to returning the stuff to ShowCars.

3/25/11
Well, the little darling has been detailed massively, including finishing the panting of the hubcaps, a literally week-long deal. The RF won’t fit. From day one this wheel was an issue, which I thought we LONG ago solved. Kelly and John and I have together and separately POUNDED on that cap with a rubber hammer for hours (literally), and I’ve gotten it on, but not trustworthy. More tuning needs doing before I am satisfied. And I don’t want to cruise to Bob’s with the cap in my front seat. So she stays in tonight. I would say I have it 85% done, but two bosses still don’t seat tightly enough. I’ve had to grind down the bosses which I welded way back in 2005, and bend the outer lip of the cap inwards to allow it to move up on those bosses. I steep-cut the backs of all four bosses on the rim, and the two at 7 and 11 fit nicely. The two forward bosses don’t seat snugly enough. I’m thinking I need to back-cut these a little more, and perhaps do some further tweaking on those mating surface in the cap. I am bleeding from the flap-disc gouging my middle LH finger, taking a portion of the nail with it, and cutting my LH index finger with the cutting wheel. Tasty hunks of meat, tasting like roasted chicken.
Otherwise, the car looks AWESOME.

3/28/11
We worked FURTHER on the hubcap issue, and I switched the LR to the RF, and welded some nubs back upon the front wheel. We tried the spare rim, and the cap would not hold.
I’ll be curious as to how the new one I bought will hold and fit. Meanwhile, I think we’ve got it for now. BUT, the brakes are now acting funny. They were snagging on the right side, literally dragging  the RF tire on the rack, and moving the WHOLE RACK forward!
I pulled the drum, and chamfered the leading edges of the shoes. No more pull or snag. But now there is little power assist.
The easing of the shoe edge can NOT possibly have anything to do with this. We checked the whole car for any signs of leaks,
NOTHING.
So I hope Power Brake Bob can break away from his problems and come up and handle this.
We hear no leaking (air), and the vacuum lines ssem good, the fluid is up.
BIZZARE.

3/31/11
PB Bob did not call back, and I will call him again in the morning to see if I can get him out here tomorrow. I intend taking Stu Hellebrand to Bob’s tomorrow night in the car.
The spare hubcap arrived in great condition and Kelly painted the flags to match our other caps. I will try the cap on tomorrow morning.

4/4/11
Stu and I did NOT take the car, as I’m not a teenager anymore and my idea of a car night is no longer dragging my feet to stop, etc.
PBB did come yesterday after some bribing, and spent hours on the carburetors. He removed the rear one, opened up the middle one, took off the top of the front one, and when we put it back together something was wrong We took the front top off, and the accelerator pump sealing ring, rubbery stuff, was folded back, and did not look appropriate. Bob suggested putting a hose clamp on it to restore its shape. He poked the jets with small wire, pulled other stuff apart, and eventually put it back together. He also retarded the timing a bit. After hours of messing with it, he also said the PCV valve was backwards notwithstanding they all come this way. He explained at high vacuum the valve was opening, and should not. We went hunting for parts at three different places for fittings and PCV valves, and ended up reusing the old one, but turned around, and modifying the draft tube pipe.
The car ran OK momentarily, then started the old stumble again.
I then noted that the power brakes were dead on first touch. That is, I could hit the pedal hard with my foot and NO response, identical to what the Tbird used to do.
Short story, he removed the booster and found the main seal on the rear piston of the unit OFF. This was clearly a HUGE source of vacuum leak.
So perhaps there lies the whole problem. Bob will return hopefully soon with the properly functioning unit. So the baby sits unable to move once again.

4/7/11
PBB is exhausted and broke from his eviction and relocation. He wants to come up Sunday after the B&M Car Show. While I would really like to drive the Impala to Bob’s tomorrow, I told him I understand and am not trying to crush his privates on this.

4/29/11
Bob did come on Sunday and finished the brake redo. All good.
Took the Impala to Bob’s last week and again tonight.
My leg just could not handle anymore after an hour of tennis ending at 6:30 PM, so Stu and I bailed around 9 PM.
The car still has the funny bobble at idle, but not all the time. Otherwise, it runs wonderfully.

5/6/11     
Took the Impala to Bob’s, and ran out of gas leaving. Managed to stumble into a station after 4 stalls going west on Riverside.
WHEW!
The car was again a hit, getting fawned over by everyone. Had some lovely conversations and interactions. It has GREAT AC, rides like a dream (better with gas), and come to think of it, I can’t recall seeing a better Impala, EVER, at Bob’s.

5/12/11
Court today against QMP was NOT a hit. TOTAL ZERO. Staggering defeat. It is maddening to have put in the HUGE time and effort to correct and prove up my case, only to be shuffled out by a numnutz attorney/commissioner.
I immediately tossed nearly all the paperwork. That’s over.

5/16/11
I was set to take the Impala to CRC for the trans tune up, but we found it leaking power steering fluid. Turns out the high pressure hose had TWO cuts in it. OF COURSE this hose is a nightmare to remove. It took three of us three hours to remove it, and that only after I cut it off with a sawzall. We’ll see how the reassembly goes tomorrow once Orme finishes making a new one.

5/18/11
We got the Orme hose. It was a NIGHTMARE to get it installed. Firstly, the angle of the fittings was not friendly to the actual layout. I think Tony turned the fitting which I cut off. It took three of us several HOURS to install it. Mind you, this meant running in TWO fittings. HORRIBLE. We have renamed the car VLAD, the Impaler.

5/23/11
JJ and I took the Condor out, ostensibly to go to Bones Fab in Camarillo and stopped to pick up the Impala along the way. The Impala drove better than before, stills hifted WYAtoo soon, and Craig made two adjustments. I decided to leave it at this point as-is, and if someone wants higher shift points they can put it in manual shift positions The car feels WAY faster now that it can RPM.
BUT, it continued to do its WAY advanced-sounding start. It is NOT advanced, but just struggles to crank. Two people told me the battery cables from the trunk-mounted battery are too small. They weren’t too small at the beginning. But we were in trouoble out in Thousand Oaks, because the Condor was grinding its starter!
We found that by adding a battery jumper on the Impala it started. So we brought it home, got 25’ of 1/0 welding cable, and wired another line (in addition to the existing). As I took off the wires on the starter post, I noticed the post was LOOSE! That clearly was the trouble. No matter, now we have DOUBLE cables running form the back. Starts just fine with the cable post tight now.

6/30/11
I emailed this order to CARS-INC.com on 6/27/11:

Turquoise/silver/black for 58 Impala, insert material only.
I believe page 66 of catalog # is 806 (perhaps that is complete with vinyl?).
On the website you show #5109 @ $109 per yard.
You noted it was about 2.7 yards, at about $300 for the complete insert only set front and rear.
Please call to verify and I’ll give you CC#.
I also need a #4995 horn ring.
And, a #15641 brake release handle,
And an emergency brake rubber pad-is that #1555?

I got no response, so called Dwaine
today at 800-CARS-INC. I’m not showing as an order, nor in system.
Added #1399 hood cushions, and #1423 side cushions.
Instead I just got #14524 rubber kit. Will email me sales confirmation, and check with Internet guy (Joe) to insure we are not doing a double order.
Pd by VISA .

7/4/11
On the way over to play tennis a few days ago, I heard what sounded like a tire coming apart. I pulled over on the freeway, found nothing, and drove right off at the next off ramp and returned home. The front end felt wobbly. I put the car on the rack, looked underneath, could see now abnormalities, and later drove it to Bob’s last Friday night, and again it felt terrible in the front end. Saturday morning around noon I went to Flip’s Tire and they put it up, and immediately we saw the RF tire had tossed some tread. I guess that part was down when I was checking it on my rack. We swapped the spare, I confirmed an order for new Coker tires with Juan for Dave to complete, and of course found the RF hubcap would not stay on the spare rijm. I will have the tires swapped on the rims tomorrow, so I can at least drive with all hubcaps, and await new tires for a mere $1000! I did not do the swap, and am just waiting to go to Flip’s on Friday.

I took the car by invitation to an American Graffiti film showing in Glendale, and it was a hit, of course.
I am awaiting the upholstery fabric and other goodies, but NOT the horn ring, as that is on back order.

7/7/11
The UPS guy, James, stopped by with the horn ring delivery, and goo-gaaged over the car, noting his dad and he are looking for a 58. He appears interested, and says he would split the cost of purchase with his dad. PLEASE DO!
The rear carb appears to be sticking on a little, and at start up the last few times it has hung the idle up rather high, requiring a blip of the full throttle to calm down.
The tires are to be installed tomorrow at Flip’s.
The horn ring is odd, in that it does not have the finished chrome facings and center emblem. I’ll work on removing the old one and figure this out.
No upholstery or other rubber bumpers have arrived as yet.
As my job at Rodriques is going to go on hold this Friday, the several substantial chunks of money going out for the car (and the dually and Condor) is becoming concerning.
This is about $2K on the Impala, and there remains a balance at CRC Trans of $4K on the Condor (WAY too much), and $500 for the Impala trans work.
This, coupled with the ongoing CITI Mortgage nightmare, has put my body into major nervousness and dread.
YUK!

7/9/11
Tires on. REAL good. Major difference in ride and handling and NOISE.
I pulled into Nick’s shop to look at the Condor today after the Cal Lutheran Car Show in Moorpark, and the hood latch had lost two of its forward mounting bolts. I replaced those, and one more little detail handled.
The radiator was about 2 quarts low (it didn’t look it), and it runs slightly cooler now.
The horn just requires a couple of screws/bots removed from the bottom to change. The upholstery arrived and Miranda will take the seats and leave the car here on Monday.